Pump sizing

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by bckind, Aug 4, 2007.

  1. bckind

    bckind LawnSite Member
    from WI
    Posts: 12

    Hey all. New to designing lake systems. Already have place mapped out, and going to need approx. 80 rotors. 40'= 8.96 gpm, 30'= 5.2 gpm. Any ideas on wht horse pump I will need? From pump to furthest zone approx. 500ft., with only +3' elev. change. Any help is very appreciated :help:
     
  2. Bigred350

    Bigred350 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 781

    All pumps are different. You divid up your zones so they all have they same gpm. Then get the right pump you need.
     
  3. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 48,015

  4. Mike Leary

    Mike Leary LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 22,070

    Check into a "on demand" system &/or "cycle stop" or "cla-valve" system, then you don't need to have your zones dialed the same.www.clay-valve.com :)
     
  5. Mike Leary

    Mike Leary LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 22,070

    I think I gave you the wrong link for "Clay val". I'm going to meet with a
    client now, maybe someone has the link, otherwise, I'll do a search when I
    get back.
     
  6. Mike Leary

    Mike Leary LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 22,070

    www.cla-val.com
     
  7. PROFESSORRAIN

    PROFESSORRAIN LawnSite Member
    Posts: 246

    SUBMERSIBLE/or centrifical,Do you want to run everything at once?How many rotors per zone,What pressure do you want at last valve???????Submersible is the way to go w/pumps you will not want anything else in the water!!Sub pumps only have to push water!!Centrifical pumps have to pull& push water.
     
  8. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 48,015

    Submersible pumps in lakes can be forbidden by law, depending on where you live, and even if they aren't, there is a genuine safety concern with running power wires into a body of water. Depending on the gallonage needed, a jet pump is safer and simpler. In general, the zone that's 500 feet away from the pump will be designed with lower gpm, to allow for a pressure drop over that distance.
     
  9. drmiller100

    drmiller100 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 562

    how far is the water below the level of the sprinkler before you start pumping???? this is total head.

    If it were me, I would be looking at number 2 pgp nozzles for a gallon a minute each. make the edges separate zones then the center full circle sprinklers.
    Run the full circlesprinklers twice as long as the edge ones.

    If it were me, assuming 20 feet of head or less, i'd be looking for a 1 or 1.5 horse pump, wiht 1.5 inch pressure line between pump and manifolds.
    If you go to 2 horsepower, probably need to upgrade to 2 inch line which can get more expensive.
     
  10. PROFESSORRAIN

    PROFESSORRAIN LawnSite Member
    Posts: 246

    Boots I understand what your saying about local code.When I install a sub-pump I use a heat shrink splice kit with rtv allow rtv to cure out usually 24 hrs install pump in 4" well screen stand to keep pump from pulling trash in it,it works well and it will throw your breaker before there is problem.It is just that a sub-pump's performance is so much better,you can take it further out into water for resevoir changes pipe lays on bottom covered up by silt.Also check specs on cent. they are not made to pull more than 25'.
     

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