3/4HP Goulds model C6470164 (pump is 20 yrs old) lake pump plugged into outlet 10 feet from shoreline 115 line run from outside outlet to a 30 amp circuit which is on the main electrical panel for house
Coming directly off the pump has a 4 valve spicket like this http://www.berryhilldrip.com/images/62032FauPic.jpg in which 3/4 inch polyethylene tubing is connected. He primarily only uses 2 of the four lines. First line has the "stake in ground sprinklers" coming off the tubing for watering the lawn covers the lawn great... (poormans irrigation but works for his setup)
2nd line is for watering a garden bed
The most efficent way @ the moment is he walks down into the basement to turn on the circuit which turns on the pump (not very pratical)
Question is:
Is their such a thing as a pump start relay with a timer built in timer? This way it would simply turn on the pump and only 1 valve is open (single zone) which waters the lawn based on a schedule. In my limitied reading it sounds like most pump start relays are connected to a irrigation controller. However its sounds like a controller is neccessary when you have multiple zones (valves)? If we wanted to keep this really basic as to simply control 1 zone (have one valve open)....Does such a pump start relay exist with a built in timer exist?
He does not have a pressure tank or pressure switch etc..The only way it turns on is if we turn on the breaker..Simply put I want to know if we can automate turning it on (once a day) at a specific time.
So tell me Boots, what if the branch circuit "breaker" cannot support the startup load of a pump? You still going to maintain they are separate. The branch circuit needs to be designed with consideration for the pump requirements (NEC Article 430 Parts 2-5, in particular part 4). This is why Article 240 defers to Article 430 when pumps are involved.
The branch circuit is a standalone entity. At some point, be it a receptacle or a disconnect, a load is connected. Obviously, it would be a good thing if the branch can supply the load. But the starting surge of a connected motor would never give you permission to remove the existing branch circuit breaker and replace it with a higher-rated one.
Getting back to the OP's claim of a 30 amp 120 volt branch circuit, how many 30 amp 120 volt receptacles do you ever see?
But the starting surge of a connected motor would never give you permission to remove the existing branch circuit breaker and replace it with a higher-rated one.
Why do you keep arguing this without reading the stuff I post? This links posted reference the code directly, they aren't some yahoos interpretation of what is "right".
Why do you keep arguing this without reading the stuff I post? This links posted reference the code directly, they aren't some yahoos interpretation of what is "right".
It does not, you effin maroon. If you believe it does, go on a site used by licensed electricians, and get their agreement, and return here and post the link. Absent that, you speak with forked tongue.
P.S. I read the Mike Holt page, and that's about a motor load, and says nothing about a branch circuit's fixed-wiring requirements. The motor is a load connected to a branch circuit.
It does not, you effin maroon. If you believe it does, go on a site used by licensed electricians, and get their agreement, and return here and post the link. Absent that, you speak with forked tongue.
It'll work - but it's pretty cheesy. K-Rain makes a 110V version that is more suited to irrigation, the 1110 or 2110. They even have a model that can have a rain sensor attached to it.
It'll work - but it's pretty cheesy. K-Rain makes a 110V version that is more suited to irrigation, the 1110 or 2110. They even have a model that can have a rain sensor attached to it.
Gee, and it was so much fun arguing about a 30 amp circuit
You linked to an electro-mechanical time switch, and the only reason to not use the model you selected is that the switching contacts may not have a horsepower rating. An Intermatic T101 is rated for 2 HP at 120 volts. You do have a minimum on time of one hour. I'd think one hour a day is a bit more than most most sprinkler zones need to water. Intermatic also makes solid-state time switches that are horsepower rated, and with much more flexible programming.
And there is always the online auctions, where you can find 7-day electromechanical time switches, like this one from Tork
Gee, and it was so much fun arguing about a 30 amp circuit
You linked to an electro-mechanical time switch, and the only reason to not use the model you selected is that the switching contacts may not have a horsepower rating.
The simple rule is to not use switches that are not horsepower-rated, and be assured the contacts won't burn out from the initial loads. An electrician would not use switching components in a pump circuit that were not horsepower-rated.
That's what it means. A timer to switch water heaters on and off is working with a resistive load. When you consider the starting surge of a motor, that's why a switch can have a horsepower rating that seems a bit low in comparison to the current rating.
That's what it means. A timer to switch water heaters on and off is working with a resistive load. When you consider the starting surge of a motor, that's why a switch can have a horsepower rating that seems a bit low in comparison to the current rating.
After further review the Timer I linked does seem to have a 2HP rating
"WH21
ELECTRIC WATER HEATER TIME SWITCH
SINGLE POLE SINGLE THROW (SPST)
25 AMP (6250 WATT) RESISTIVE, 1500 WAT TUNGSTEN,
2 H.P. (20 FLA/80 LRA) - 208 OR 250 VOLT, 60 HZ."
If you want to water an hour a day, every single day, it would work.
"WH21
ELECTRIC WATER HEATER TIME SWITCH
SINGLE POLE SINGLE THROW (SPST)
25 AMP (6250 WATT) RESISTIVE, 1500 WAT TUNGSTEN,
2 H.P. (20 FLA/80 LRA) - 208 OR 250 VOLT, 60 HZ."
Note that the 2HP rating is for 208/250 volts. The switch is not rated at 120 volts, apparently. The same horsepower at a 120 volts will have twice the current.
If it doesn't have a horsepower rating for 120 volts, then it never underwent official testing for that application. An electrician wouldn't bother with guessing about it. Not when there are other time switches with 120-volt horsepower ratings for similar cost.
When you look at products with horsepower ratings for both 120 and 240 volts, you'll get an idea of why you wouldn't make assumptions.
In order to put this long drawn out thread to bed.....Could you kindly suggest a cheap timer or either a pump start relay....Remember all I need is to simply turn/off and on the circuit and have the flexibility to water a few times a week for minimum of 10 minutes of greater. I would prefer something that doesnt need to run everyday.
We have repeatedly mentioned cheap time switches that would work. If you really, really want to spend as little as possible, shop on eBay. That 7-day Tork time switch above has a 40 amp rating (2 HP at 120 volts) and never even got as far as being installed anywhere in the first place. So you have an "open box special" for about the same money as the water-heater time switch.
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