question on paver patios

Discussion in 'Hardscaping' started by DoubleB, Feb 20, 2007.

  1. DoubleB

    DoubleB LawnSite Member
    from So.Dak.
    Posts: 60

    How do you go about building step ups in your paver patio out of the orignal pavers? I understand how to build them out of retaining wall block such as versalok but not the same pavers your using in the job. Also is it a smart idea to have a finished screed with a wavy up and down surface to follow surrounding elevations or to keep the screed level all the way across and build retaining wall sides to compensate for the changing heights. Could use the advice. thanks guys.
    DoubleB
     
  2. leaflandscape

    leaflandscape LawnSite Member
    Posts: 241

    Have you done any hardscape work before, because if not you might strongly consider taking a course, because stuff like steps and walls can be a lawsuit waiting to happen, and you should really know very well what you're doing before you start. Your finished grade all depends on what you want to accomplish with your project. Do you want a seatwall at the edge or some steps in the middle, etc.
     
  3. DoubleB

    DoubleB LawnSite Member
    from So.Dak.
    Posts: 60

    I have done many paver patios to date. Just never built steps in the design. Questioned the grade because I saw a local landscaper who built a patio with a pretty nasty drop to it, so bad that I didnt know how the pavers leveled off.
     
  4. YardPro

    YardPro LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,563

    first off you have posted this in the wrong section....

    try the hardscape section, you will get a lot more response....

    as for your question,

    the risers will need to be a matching retaining wall block. if you want to use pavers use them as treads just like the tread area was a small paver section...
    just glue the outer soldier course to the block....

    as for the wavy screeding.... that question makes it sound like you have not done many, if any paver jobs by yourself before.....

    that is a basic layout question.... it depends on how much elevation change you are refering to...
     
  5. PSUturf

    PSUturf LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 663

    Screeding should never be wavy; it should have a uniform slope that is not so steep that you feel like you are leaning.

    As Yardpro said glue pavers onto the block for treads. Steps should be built entirely from block with pavers or cap units used as treads. Never fill between block with gravel as it will settle.
     
  6. DoubleB

    DoubleB LawnSite Member
    from So.Dak.
    Posts: 60

    as for the wavy screeding.... that question makes it sound like you have not done many, if any paver jobs by yourself before.....

    that is a basic layout question.... it depends on how much elevation change you are refering to...[/QUOTE]

    I know its a stupid question, and it sounds like I really dont know what I am talking about, but I was curious if anyone has done this before. All of the patios I have done I have never messed around with changing grade, always level, thats why I questioned it. And by all mean I am no pro at installing these, just a guy gaining experience and working my way up. Thanks again for the advice.
     
  7. jbailey52

    jbailey52 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,089

    Well I hope you know a patio should never be level... :hammerhead: (1-2%)
     
  8. ChampionLS

    ChampionLS LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,066

    When I build steps, regardless of the block's height or cap's height, the finished steps should not be less than 6" or more than 8" (you should check local building codes to find out whats acceptable) Most front entrances are 8" while other doorways can be less. If your using a 8" block, you'll achieve your height faster and have less steps to deal with. If room is tight, you may need a taller block anyway. I never make a walkway- either at the top or bottom of steps have a slope. (slightly for run off is fine) You dont want someone coming off steps and walking down a slide. A walkway can begin to slope down grade after a small level area. When I build steps, I never use base material for filler- this can cause settling over time and cause steps to rock backwards. EP Henry makes step filler block, and other companies will simply say to bury enough blocks to build up on them. For a staircase that has 4 steps, you need to bury 4 blocks deep at the base, 3 for the next level, then 2 and 1. Your using more material, but it will never settle. Also, if you need to add a railing, there will be block below the caps to anchor into.
    Steps are tricky but not that hard.
     

Share This Page