Radiant Heat under pavers

Discussion in 'Landscape Architecture and Design' started by MarcusLndscp, Sep 28, 2004.

  1. MarcusLndscp

    MarcusLndscp LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 634

    Was wondering if anyone deals much with radiant heat under pavers. We've done a few before but was wondering how you guys did them. We have typically graded our base to a set level and layed down 2" Blueboard insulation. The Plumbers then clip down their tubing and we come in after with concrete sand and the pavers. My question pertains specifically to screeding your sand. The tubing and insulation board never seems to be a real sturdy surface............they obviously have imperfections to them. For example the clips that hold the tubing down. So how do you set your screed pipes? Across the tubing or laying between the tubes? Across the top would give you a much greater depth of sand which according to specs is not appropriate. Any help or thoughts would be appreciated.
    Thanks Mark
  2. CWPacky

    CWPacky LawnSite Member
    Posts: 7

    I woulD never do a job like that!!! All your asking for is problems!!! The foundation of pavers needs to be solid for it to last and carry a guarantee. That guarantee is your reputation. If your comfortable enough running plastic tubes on top of insulation board, all to power to you!! Good luck because eventually you'll need it.\
  3. Rex Mann

    Rex Mann LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 621

    Turf Medic likes this.
  4. Turf Medic

    Turf Medic LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,073

    It appears to me that this would be one of those paver jobs that would require a concrete base to start with, then mortar the pavers to the concrete. ie laying 3 to 4" concrete over the blueboard and tubing. That would allow you to have the best of both worlds, radiant heat to keep the snow melted, and a firm foundation for your pavers. It would most definately cost more up front but would be less expensive in the long run. Can't imagine not only how you would maintain the placing of the pavers in the long term, but how would the plastic tubing hold up.

    Have you talked to a designer for this radiant heat or are you assuming that it is ok to lay sand and pavers over the tubing and blueboard insulation?
  5. landscapingpoolguy

    landscapingpoolguy LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 819

    I would just do stamped concrete with the radiant heat tubes in the cement. Other wise I still see heaving or water getting between the cement pad mortar and pavers.

  6. Vermonster

    Vermonster LawnSite Member
    Posts: 5

  7. MarcusLndscp

    MarcusLndscp LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 634

    Thank you RexMann. I've never seen it done with the wire mesh like the ICPI site showed but it seems as if it would be alot easier. Jobs I've seen large paver companies do with radiant heat have always used the blueboard the same as we do. Do you know any flaws/advantages in the blueboard compared to the wire mesh or vice versa?

    Up here in the north these applications are quite common and they do work you don't need concrete bases and yes you can put a warranty on them.....I was just wondering how others go about this process. We have areas they drive large fire trucks and heavy equipment over pavers with radiant heat and there's not a flaw in the pavers...not even a slight depression from the highly travelled areas. In the end it saves us from TONS of snow removal.

    Thanks for the website info Vermonster.....that's pretty cool. Where you at in Southern VT???
  8. GreenMonster

    GreenMonster LawnSite Silver Member
    from NH
    Posts: 2,702


    Did you ever end up doing a radiant install with electric. I have a customer asking me to look into it, so I'm curious if you have first hand info...

    BTW, you cell phone broken or what?!?! ;)
  9. MarcusLndscp

    MarcusLndscp LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 634

    Hey Mark
    I've never been involved with a system that was soley electric and actually never heard of one, not to say they don't exist. The ones we always did had a 1" pipe clipped onto blueboard with an antifreeze running through it. We did these applications quite often actually. I've since heard of the flaws with putting the wire down compared to the blueboard insulation. Apparently with the wire there is more of a risk long term with the wire wearing a hole or a slit if you will in the pipes. In theory I'm told that every time the system is turned on the pipes move a little with the force of the antifreeze being pushed through them causing the wire to rub against the pipe wearing it a little every time the system is run thus cutting the pipe and breaking it eventually. I can't recall the $ amount per gallon for the antifreeze but I know it is not cheap at all. If you want more info on the way we went about this process I'll fill you in some day over a beverage or two. My cell should still work, I got your message the other day....what is this nickname you have for me any way? Dubbah? Typical NewHampshire-ite....you people don't know how to pronounce the letter R! I'll try calling tomorrow
  10. GreenMonster

    GreenMonster LawnSite Silver Member
    from NH
    Posts: 2,702

    Not being able to pronoune the letter R goes back to my Massachusetts upbringing.... ah damn, I can't believe I just let that cat out of the bag! My message the other day???? Uh, that was today, my friend :rolleyes:

    I'm more interested in the electric option cuz this place doesn't have forced hot water, so it would require a whole boiler setup just to run the heat. customer was interested if it could be done somewhat economically.

    I ordered the stone for that wall today. Should be in for next week :blob4:

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