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Ransomes ZT100 Bearing Problem

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by Jaynen, Jun 19, 2013.

  1. Jaynen

    Jaynen LawnSite Member
    Posts: 121

    I have a Ransomes ZT100 mower that has a shaft drive for the blades. The shaft goes to a right angle gearbox. One of the bearings went inside the gearbox. There was no oil in the gearbox for at least 100 hours. A new replacement gearbox is roughly $500-$600 and I think one for a Walker mower is roughly $200.

    I was wondering if anyone has any opinions on how to go about fixing this.

    I can get the bearings off, but will new bearings need to be press fit on?

    Should I just buy a Walker one and fab up a new bracket to hold it in place?

    Should I see if some where in town someone can pull and put new bearings on.

    Any input would be great, thanks.
     
  2. Bashby

    Bashby LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 446

    Look for a tag on the gearbox with the manufacturer and model. Google it, you may find a parts diagram.
     
  3. Jaynen

    Jaynen LawnSite Member
    Posts: 121

    I can get the parts no problem, i don't know if the bearing is supposed to be pressed on.
     
  4. pugs

    pugs LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,018

    Find the model and the maker of the gearbox as was mentioned and post that info. Then maybe we could find you some service info for the gearbox....
     
  5. Jaynen

    Jaynen LawnSite Member
    Posts: 121

    I'm just worried that I will buy the parts for 100 bucks, then pay someone to press on new bearings, 100-200, and buy all the lubs and seals and end up with a 400 dollar gearbox that has gears that ran with no oil for who knows how long.

    Any Japanese knock off gearbox companies?
     
  6. BigFish

    BigFish LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,911

    The gear/s are prolly trashed also.
     
  7. herler

    herler LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,145

    I would tell you what the problem is but I'm tired of hearing the "yes buts"
     
  8. Jeff in AL

    Jeff in AL LawnSite Senior Member
    from Alabama
    Posts: 718

    Jaynen,
    Being run 100 plus hours without oil will do that! The gearbox is fried, period!

    There is no way you can or will buy 4 new bearings with races, both new gears and both new seals for $100.00... Not gonna happen!

    You have been asked twice so far to provide the name and numbers on the gearbox which you have not done as of yet... Here is a hint, the name on the side of the box will say "Superior Gearbox Company" (you can find the number).

    You asked:

    I was wondering if anyone has any opinions on how to go about fixing this..... Replace the gearbox!

    I can get the bearings off, but will new bearings need to be press fit on? ..... Yes, all 4 bearings are pressed on both shafts.

    Should I just buy a Walker one and fab up a new bracket to hold it in place? ..... A gearbox is a gearbox just as a belt is a belt... They are ALL different!

    Should I see if some where in town someone can pull and put new bearings on..... Go for it!



    Your best bet is going to replace the gearbox with an OEM gearbox... Only this time when you see that the pulley on the bottom of the gearbox is "oily" or the stub end for the drive shaft is "oily" that is a clue that a seal is leaking and needs attention! Had you done normal maintenance on the machine like greasing any of the 7 grease fittings in that immediate area, you would have noticed plain as day an oil leak much sooner then 100 hours later after it is fried!

    I would recommend to replace the box even though it is $578.00... But it is your money, so if you want to try to fix/repair and hope it holds or you want to spend the time/money to get any "gearbox" to work, go for it!
     
  9. Jaynen

    Jaynen LawnSite Member
    Posts: 121

    Ya I am just gonna replace it with oem. I was hoping someone would reccomend just putting a walker one in place or a knock off company. I have only ran the mower a little last season and a little this season. I did a bunch of maintenance fixes on it last year and didn't see any oil so I figured it was fine. And I am still swampped with workand trying to catch up. So its still gonna be down for at least 2 weeks until I can get some spare time. Thank god for a back-up mower. Thanks for the reply.
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  10. Jeff in AL

    Jeff in AL LawnSite Senior Member
    from Alabama
    Posts: 718

    Jaynen,
    In case you were wondering what you will find inside your gearbox, here ya go!

    This gearbox is proprietary to SGC...

    SGC ONLY offers the gearbox as an assembly (part number 2228008) for 578.63 or the seals.

    Superior Gearbox Company ONLY offers:

    Seal Kit (all seals and a tube of sealant)for 23.64

    Bearing Kit (all bearings and races) for 63.82

    The gears, shafts and housings are NOT available as parts.


    I would highly recommend that you tear the deck down and get the gearbox removed... Then make sure you can get pulley off of the bottom of the gearbox... If it comes off, your lucky... If not, you will need to order a pulley also because you will most likely bend/destroy it trying to get it off!
    If you need the keys on the shafts, the one that the pulley goes over is square (part number 64164-12) for .52 and the one on the input side that the driveshaft goes over is a woodruff key (part number 64164-25) .83

    Use Anti-Seize on both shafts on reassembly!

    I would also pay close attention to how far the driveshaft is installed on the input shaft...Take a picture... IF you install the driveshaft on too far, you will NOT be able to flip the deck up as the u-joint will bind on the shaft. (I set them to where the end of the shaft is flush with the inside face of the u-joint).
    Also pay close attention to how much of the lower shaft is extending through the pulley... Take a picture...IF you install the pulley all the way up against the gearbox it will grind, and you will be replacing the gearbox and pulley again! However, if the pulley is set too low on the shaft, when you get it all together the v-belt will rub on the v-belt idler spring and break the spring!

    Final tip would be to replace the v-belt at this time, because you will need to remove the gearbox to replace the belt when the time comes anyway!



    Hope this info helps you and others!

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