rc30 drivetrain issues

Discussion in 'Heavy Equipment & Pavement' started by swanny, Jan 18, 2011.

  1. kgserv

    kgserv LawnSite Member
    Posts: 104

    spoke with my dealer about complete rebuild undercarriages. he said you would alsmost be half way to a new machine. im just wondering if a should just stick with this 30, cuz of all the issues the new ones are having, so there wont be as many on the used market.
     
  2. greyim

    greyim LawnSite Member
    Posts: 36

    Well done! what was holding it then, locktite?
    Best check motor seal (by opereting it..) heat wrecks them, it's alot of work to have to take all off again. easy to fix, kit has notes, paint stripe down casing, dont let bits fall out when you take apart.
    Life of tracks - very short in gravel pit
     
  3. jbrockmann

    jbrockmann LawnSite Member
    Posts: 50

    I have no idea what was holding it together. The key stayed stuck in the spocket, still in there. Cone style shaft, not cylindrical. Just wedged real tight? Others said the cage just breaks free, but mine came flying off dangerously fast once it broke loose. :weightlifter: Luckily no broken toes and no trips to the hospital.

    I will turn the machine on to check the status of the seals. I don't know where the best place for ordering the kit is. My local dealer said the seals were $35, don't know if they come with instructions. But, then I tried to order the kit from trackloaderparts.com and they said the kit was around $260. Don't know what the differences are, but they said it's just rubber orings and yes, Terex charges lots of coin for the kit because they can. Newer Sauer motors on this machine. Said about the same price for the Eaton kits.
     
  4. Hollowellreid

    Hollowellreid LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 289

    As to the life span of the 30-

    I don't think they are really commercial grade and find lots of little problems. Wiring harnesses rub through, things rattle apart, no bushings that are replaceable, etc. I think being small they are also often overworked. Ours always were/are. Early ones didn't have a front transmission support and the trans would come off the engine regularly. The toothed flywheel that drives the hydraulic pump/transmission was also made of Plastic....

    The tracks last a good while as they are so light. I think the weakest part of the undercarriage is the wheel bearings and on the older ones, the fact that the rear washer on the idler wheels would come loose as debris ate away at the retaining ring on the back side.

    We've only had 1 wheel motor go bad. I have an extra (early) Eaton? motor that was recently rebuilt if anyone needs one.

    Our New Terex PT30 has had it's share of small problems too. These guys just can't seem to get it right for whatever reason. Bolts rattle out, fuel gauge has never worked (after multiple different diagnosis) the new arm design was faulty and cut into the bucket curl hoses, etc. Nothing major at least but it still makes you wonder. The new ones are also quite cold blooded.
     
  5. greyim

    greyim LawnSite Member
    Posts: 36

    hi folks... @$#%$.. engine starts fine but no movement.
    I have had the safety fuse (seat/bar witches) blow quite alot but the problem seems to have worsened.
    Any ideas?
     
  6. carlriv

    carlriv LawnSite Member
    from Mass
    Posts: 99

    Does the brake piston retract? If it does you have hydro pressure still.


    I have had the coil for the safety circuit go bad... pull the coil from the aux circuit and put it on the safety circuit and flip aux switch. I had a bad coil, and a bad wire at 2 different times. BTW the wire had 12v, but under load it dropped to 0.

    Also had the pump coupler plate go bad. The pump bolts broke and the plastic gear wore out. Not a fun fix, easiest way to replace it is to pull the motor.
     
  7. kgserv

    kgserv LawnSite Member
    Posts: 104

    mine did that it turned out to be a bad ground on the safety switches
     
  8. greyim

    greyim LawnSite Member
    Posts: 36

    Thanks for your replies folks and seasons greetings to all.
    Brake piston retracts
    Tried bridging both seat and safety bar switches, doesnt seem to make any difference.
    Replaced 2 relays, going to get 3 more (replace the lot syndrome)
    Don't know where the safety circuit earth is, so that's a tough one.
    Is anyone able to post a circuit diagram? Then I could troubleshoot it or at least hot wire it for a while.
     
  9. greyim

    greyim LawnSite Member
    Posts: 36

    duh under hydraulic tank
     
  10. carlriv

    carlriv LawnSite Member
    from Mass
    Posts: 99

    The coils for the safety and aux hydro are located under the foot plate. If you remove the 4 bolts that hold it down you can access them. I belive the easiest check is to mark which is which, then swap one of the Aux for the safety, and then the other. Check for movement with the aux hydraulics forward and reverse .... If you still dont move it must be a coil/power/ground.

    Be careful if you have the coils swapped there is NO safety, if you bump the drive or bucket with machine running it will move.
     

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