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Redmax blower cold starting problem?

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by Bunton Guy, Mar 14, 2005.

  1. Bunton Guy

    Bunton Guy LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,755

    My redmax eb431 I think thats the model.

    Anyway when its below 60 degrees out the blower starts but you cant hit the throttle for atleast 2-3 minutes. I literally have to start it and walk away. If you do hit the throttle even slowly or just a little tap it makes this sound like the engine has a miss fire. In some cases it will pop and give off what sounds like a backfire.The blower will shake noticibly almost violantly! IT has done this since day one when it was brand new...when it had a fresh fuel filter, fresh fuel, fresh plug...fresh everything!
  2. vipermanz

    vipermanz LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,773

    what is your starting procedure?
  3. Bunton Guy

    Bunton Guy LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,755

    flip choke on prime bulb 3-5 times pull twice it starts...within 4-5 seconds take off choke and then starts the problem. No throttle reaction for 4-5 minutes with a miss fire back fire....gurgle popping sound.
  4. vipermanz

    vipermanz LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,773

    i do the same steps but on my 7000, i have the throttle at around 25%. i tried it without throttle and it didn't really want to start
  5. Mower Man

    Mower Man LawnSite Member
    Posts: 100

    Problem sources:
    1. Weak magnet pole can reducing magnetic field build up. Ergo reduce coil charge on the primary, and reduced coil charge in the secondary which affects voltage.
    Since you seem to say that it runs well when it's warm...magnet is least likely.

    2. Air leak. Check that the Carb screws are tight.

    3. Air leak. Check that the Intake Manifold screws are tight.
    Three ways to check:
    A. Remove Carb since screws are underneath. New Carb-Manifold gasket should be used.
    B. Look at large gray gasket behind Carb. IF it's slightly darker, and/or you see light 'fuzz' around the where the Intake Manifold-gasket meet....the screws ARE loose. Needs new gasket.
    C. When running, carefully spray Carb cleaner at the Manifold-gasket base, AND around the cylinder base.
    If the engine RPM changes.....leakage is occuring.
    Don't used Starting Fluid.
    Be carfull around the muffler.
    If you smoke when you work, then is not a good time to puff.

    You must block off the air cleaner so the vaporized carb cleaner doesn't get injested!!!!!!!!!

    4. Air/Fuel Mixture. Carb will need to be readjusted, or opened up & cleaned.

    New gaskets ARE always required, because a gasket seals by 'shape conforming'. It physically changes (deforms), and is 'squeezed-crushed' into filling the voids. Once that happens it's used up.
    In a pinch I've carefully spray coated gaskets with an aersol gasket maker, and cleaned all the hole edges, especialy the small Impulse hole.
    But gaskets are only $1-$3 usually. Cheap compared to aggravation.

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