"remodelling a paver driveway"

Discussion in 'Hardscaping' started by benderlawn, Jul 22, 2009.

  1. benderlawn

    benderlawn LawnSite Member
    Posts: 7

    we have a large paver driveway (about 4500 sq feet) which was laid 14 years ago and has settled somewhat

    have read your forum a lot and it seems that the main thing is to get the details right- so would like some advice

    in general has held up ok but is
    especially rutted at the garage entrances and street entrances- just bought the house ( and the troubles)
    has spread out in places also despite concrete restraining
    no sand left - just screening about 7-8 inches (toronto ontario ) on heavy clay

    stones are 60 mm thick grey concrete about 4X3 and 4X6 inches in dimension

    we are planning to lift the garage area as a doable test site (about 1000 square feet )
    put in restraint system with 12 inch spikes and soldier course on the lip of the restraints
    repair with screening correct
    slope to 1"/8' and relay on a 1 inch bed of concrete sand

    your advice?

    1. restraint - best turned so soldier course is on the restraint or other way around

    2. to protect the transition from driveway to garage from rutting again should we trench the last 2 feet or so in front of entrances down about 18 inches and replace with a thicker tamped screening layer

    3 do we need drainmat or geotex at the concrete - drive transitions coming vertically to hold the sand

    4. how high to leave the stones above grade at the transition to the grass - or to the garage once they are compacted down to final grade

    5 i know the poly sand must be bone dry - but some sites say that the screeding sand should be slightly moist so it can squish in your hand ?

    6. these stones have no spacers and were laid tight like every driveway i see done yet very site talks about 1/8 inch gaps on all sides should they be laid side by side or gapped out?

    7. do you put any sand on the stones before the initial compacting or only after you set them

    lots of questions but its attention to detail that makes a job last instead of just look good for a year or 2

    thanks for your help
     
  2. DVS Hardscaper

    DVS Hardscaper LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,406

    4500 SF is quite a large job for one that hasn't done any paver work.

    Like I always say: It's best to crawl before you walk and walk before you run.



    ,
     
  3. benderlawn

    benderlawn LawnSite Member
    Posts: 7

    u r right - which is why am picking 1000 square feet only in the squared off part of the turn around- figure the worst i can do is waste our time and some sand - very little cutting involved and no pattern
     
  4. Mid-Ohio Scaper

    Mid-Ohio Scaper LawnSite Member
    Posts: 135

    No pattern??????:confused: You have a paver drive with no pattern? The majority of the strength of interlocking pavers is the pattern. (as well as the base) If I'm not mistaken here, the herringbone is the strongest followed by muster K.
    You should post some pics of this drive, I would love to see what you're talking about.
     
  5. benderlawn

    benderlawn LawnSite Member
    Posts: 7

    will have to let it stop raining long enough to get a few
    more so here is one from the fall
    this is a bond type pattern i believe and you can make out the
    rutting in front of the garages sort of

    thanks for your help

    IMG_0377.jpg
     
  6. zedosix

    zedosix LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,628

    1.Restraint typically should be installed with nailed edge out. Do this after brick is relaid. Should have sufficient base extending beyond the edge restraint (very important)
    2.Rutting is very common when the base is not prepared properly from the start. In your case if you have sufficient base now, just retamp (I would use a jumping jack to really compact) and add more 3/4" before adding more screedings. Use only a coarse grain sand and not more than one inch is required.
    3.You could use a layer of geotex to help hold the sand, but @ 1" of sand its not going anywhere especially if you top up with polymeric sand. Its a bit overkill imo.
    4.Brick should be level with lawn and with garage floor.
    5.Screeding sand is fine either dry or a bit damp. I don't worry about it when I do my installs. I don't want it saturated but I also don't spray it with water if its dry.
    6.I would space the bricks by 1/8" and this way the sand finds its way in between and gives you the "interlock" that is required.
    7. I usually put a thin layer of sand first, then compact, then add final layer of sand to top up. I believe icpi suggests to compact first, but for me I don't like the brick moving laterally so I partially fill first. Then I cover with a non woven geo text to keep the dust down and the bricks from scarring. Have fun and please send a cheque to zedosix for consultation fee. 100 dollars will do. Thnx.
     
  7. Twitchy

    Twitchy LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 347

    Zedosix pretty much nailed it. I would do something with that gutter liter that's draining on the driveway too. No need for excess water running across the pavers. Good Luck
     
  8. benderlawn

    benderlawn LawnSite Member
    Posts: 7

    thanks everyone
     
  9. benderlawn

    benderlawn LawnSite Member
    Posts: 7

    thanks everyone

    to jazz it up what contrast color and size would you guys think
    i was thinking about adding in some larger stones in a salmon sort of color to go with the house brick but would appreciate a comment
     
  10. PlatinumLandCon

    PlatinumLandCon LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,315

    Bender, where in the city is this?
     

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