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Root Saw?

Discussion in 'Landscape Maintenance' started by recycledsole, Oct 24, 2012.

  1. rlitman

    rlitman LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,552

    Last time I had to do it, I had a tree that had fallen over, and I was trying to remove as much material as possible without stump grinding.

    That is one way, but personally, I've grown to like my toes too much to do it that way.
  2. Darryl G

    Darryl G LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 8,033

    What I like about a maddock is that you can pry with it too. I have a pair of sacrificial loppers that I use for smaller roots as well.
  3. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,081

    Definately makes a person wonder... :confused:

    Jamming saw blades into the dirt for a 3" root, is like using a jackhammer to scrape ice off the sidewalk...
    Do LCOs ever stop to think how they look to the neighborhood when they are running a blade into the dirt???

    Everywhere I work I have access to a water hose with adequate pressure and volume to wash away the soil around the root and make a clean cut for whatever I use... I seen threads entitled "Why no Respect for the Profession" at various times on these forums and I think this thread revealed some reasons for it... :)
  4. recycledsole

    recycledsole LawnSite Gold Member
    from MD
    Posts: 3,233

    ok guys
    digging a hole for a 4'X4'X4' french drain FILLED with roots 2"-4" thick. No way was my maddock (pick axe) doing the job. Sorry, i dont have the agression you speak about. Well there are some root saws made by silky- which makes good saws. but i dont think you can sharpen those serrated blades.......

  5. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,081

    ... maybe I'm mistaken and there is a way of sawing, but, with that volume, you may just want to rent a stump grinder and make a nice clean hole... after 2' down your roots will thin out quickly then a shovel will do just fine... :)
  6. rlitman

    rlitman LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,552

    No, not the Silky blades. I'd hate to ruin one of their blades by cutting in dirt.
    I have a tree saw blade from Fiskars that they call a "woodzig" blade. It can be really easily sharpened with a round file just like a chainsaw.

    That's why I suggested carbide tipped blades. I guess I wasn't specific what kind of blade I was talking about.
    The Freud Diablo Demo Demon blades have a tiny piece of carbide brazed to each tooth. They happily cut through plaster and stucco without grinding their teeth off, so I don't see why they would be hurt by dirt.
    The only problem is that they're a little fine toothed for green wood. Perhaps someone can break off every other tooth and report back the results . . .
    My only concern would be about sucking dirt into the tool's air vents.

  7. ron mexico75

    ron mexico75 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,704

    Well in that case no, the maddock wouldn't be good. You just said in your post you were running into roots. No description of how deep, or what you were doing. I think a lot of guys just assumed digging in shrubs or removing old ones.
  8. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,081

    Our soils have rock inbedded in the root ball of all sizes... sometimes when digging out stumps, we find stone the size of baseballs so surrounded by roots that you couldn't knock it loose with a hammer...
    There is no blade that I would run through that... I'm sticking with stump grinder and shovel under these circumstances...
  9. cdqat1432

    cdqat1432 LawnSite Member
    Male, from Youngstown, Ohio
    Posts: 138

    No mention of hydraulics here? So much cheaper and I never get tired.
  10. jlcrox2

    jlcrox2 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 67

    If I can't cut it with a heavy steel spade I use a pruning saw.

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