Rotor Head Hookup question

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by turbosl2, Jul 6, 2012.

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  1. Duekster

    Duekster LawnSite Fanatic
    from DFW, TX
    Posts: 7,961

    So you are out of ideas? :laugh:

    Trouble shooting is fun, some times you have to fix things installed wrong.
     
  2. Mike Leary

    Mike Leary LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 21,774

    To a point.
     
  3. Duekster

    Duekster LawnSite Fanatic
    from DFW, TX
    Posts: 7,961

    As long as you are consistant, That is all I ask. :drinkup:
     
  4. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 46,910

    Dudes, it's probably a flag lot, and if you want to 'double' the city water supply, you would spend thousands on a new tap and supply line.

    There would be some sense in looking to switch to well water. That would also cost thousands, but the water supply would be all fixed up, as long as filtration is added to keep sand out of the system.
     
  5. Duekster

    Duekster LawnSite Fanatic
    from DFW, TX
    Posts: 7,961

    Loop the main
     
  6. turbosl2

    turbosl2 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 56

    I hear what your saying but modifiying the layout is just not an option. Its to many heads for me and i dont have the time or will to do it. pressure is 55PSI static. I cannot give you guys a pressure at the head without a pitot tube. The only thing i can do is what was suggested by putting a guage on the backflow preventer and take pressure/flow data as i open the the sprinklers, or better yet. I could disconnect the manifold and use the ball valve on the backflow and get data from closed (static) to full open, then plot the curve.

    Judging by what i am throwing with the 3 -5GPM nozzles i think i am between 25-30psi at the head
     
  7. turbosl2

    turbosl2 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 56

    You are close, its a 7acre lot where i set the house from the road a long distance. 1.75acres are cleared and personally i dont think the layout is bad, i think it can better but distance is not the only function i am concerned with. I need to put down alot of precipication (In/Hr). There is NO shade and i get full sun from sun up to sun down, add that to pure sand and it seems there is not enough water in the world to keep it green and from drying out.

    What my goal was asking for your guys help is to determine how to get better close in watering (a more even stream), this is what led to the questions about the distance (the issue with the 25' was due to large of nozzles in the heads), and what rotors seem better. I dont think i have a bad pressure.

    If its worth something i will spend the time to take readings like i described before (just tell me if i should do it with the system disconnected adn just vary the ball valve coming out of the backflow from closed to open and record the pressure and flow from the meter.

    Thanks, i appreciate the advice so far
     
  8. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 46,910

    if you are on anything close to the kind of moraine soil I see, courtesy of the ice age, you would eventually get back all the money you invest in drilling a well.
     
  9. turbosl2

    turbosl2 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 56

    I am looking to order 2 Maxipaws and 2 6504 rotors. I plan to swap out 2 of my full circle zones where i have 5GPM nozzles and right now getting about 38' and see how they perform, not just in distance but with close in watering. I never used the 6504s but the three nozzles look to be a much better design, it seems only logical that if you split it up into 3 stages you can meter it much better.
     
  10. greenmonster304

    greenmonster304 LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,041

    I think you are missing the point. If you don't have the right pressure you won't get close in watering because the water dosent "atomize" with low pressure regardless of the head unless its an impact head. Don't wast your money on the 6505s the same thing will happen. The rain curtain works great with 45 lbs.
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
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