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Rounded off screw - tricks to get it out?

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by Pecker, Dec 17, 2005.

  1. Pecker

    Pecker LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,454

    How would you solve this?

    Was taking the muffler off of my BP blower - 2 screws into cylinder and one bracing the muffler to the bottom of the crankcase. The one screw at the bottom was a phillips/flat screw. Had good grip with phillips but it WOULD NOT budge. I could even feel the screwdriver shaft twisting from the pressure. Rounded it out. Went to flat because the screw was a phillips with the slot in it too and the flat rounded off too. This is a tight place to get to - requires about 5 inches of the screwdriver shaft. In other words way too tight to get my drill with a screw extractor to and bolt head is now rounded out. What are my options? Thanks.
  2. Gilla Gorilla

    Gilla Gorilla LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 923

    Okay dont tell anybody that I told you about this. LOL but in most situations it works great. Go get your self a tube of valve grinding compound put some on the head of the phillips screw driver, twist it to the tighten postition slightly till you feel it move just a little. Then twist it to the left and it should come out fine.

    Let me know how this works.

    PS dont tell anybody about this, I have made a lot of money off of this trick by getting screws out that other people worked at for a while.
  3. Pecker

    Pecker LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,454

    Shh. . .ok. . .where can I find valve grinding compound? What is it? Thanks.
  4. Gilla Gorilla

    Gilla Gorilla LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 923

    You should be able to get it from any local auto parts store
  5. wriken

    wriken LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,154

    I would also take a phillips bit, hold it in the screw head and give it a good tap, to send shock down to the threads.
  6. Jay Ray

    Jay Ray LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,510

    If the above things don't budge it, ******, and nobody has an easy way, the only solution I see is to drill the head off with a long drill (extension drill), remove the muffler, then drill what is left on dead center and try an extractor or easy-out. Be careful not to drill all the way into the crankcase, a passage, or a chamber.

    If it still won't budge with the easy-out, then drill the remaining screw out to tap drill size and re-tap the hole. It is probably going to take a metric tap. If you don't have another unit on-hand (that the screw will come right out of) it may be hard to guess what the thread denomination is.

    If the threads get boogered up in the process, drill it just a little bit bigger (not much) and tap it with a standard English tap that is a bit bigger than the metric tap was. Drill the clearance hole in the muffler or new muffler a bit bigger too. Of course, buy an English screw to fit.

    All of this is a lot easier said than done. If you don't end up with pretty threads, but at least some threads left, you can use lock-tite and not tighten it back too tight when you put it back together.

    I'd rather take a beating than drill out broken bolts, and I always say I'm taking it to a machine shop next time. But I always struggle with it myself.
  7. Jay Ray

    Jay Ray LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,510

    I typed in your handle and the site put the askeriks in. Sorry.
  8. Pecker

    Pecker LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,454

    I have some backlapping compound in my garage. Will that do?
  9. lawnmaniac883

    lawnmaniac883 LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,613

    Drill it out, either re-tap or helicoil it.
  10. Gilla Gorilla

    Gilla Gorilla LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 923

    Is that backlaping compound really gritty, like it has a lot of sand and stuff in it?
    If so then go to it. You might also want to get a GOOD new phillips bit from Home Depot, the Vermont Ice #2 bits with the little ribs in them along with the compound.

    Let us know

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