Routing Drains For Gutters

Discussion in 'Landscape Architecture and Design' started by Premo Services, Jan 17, 2008.

  1. Premo Services

    Premo Services LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,516

    I have a customer who wants his gutters to drain away from house.
    They will be diverted to a level area in the lawn.
    He wants the end adapters that are white, in a elbow, and have a green plug that lifts up to let the water out.

    I have done drain diverting before, but it was on slopes, and just left open at ends.

    I have a couple questions for this procedure.

    Do the end adapters that I referred to work in letting the water from gutters get out.

    What pipe should be used
    the 4 inch black corrigated, or 4 inch white solid pipe.

    Thanks
     
  2. Bull

    Bull LawnSite Senior Member
    from NC
    Posts: 308

    The ones that I am familiar with are sold at Lowe's. They are like you describe and they are plumbed with the white pipe. You just run the pipe out as far from the foundation as needed and then the adapter goes on flush with the ground. Some have a pop up lid that lets the water out and others have a cover with open slots molded into the top so the water can escape. On most you can take the top off to clean the adapter out.
     
  3. ICT Bill

    ICT Bill LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,115

    Black corrigated will collapse in almost every instance when buried underground. I prefer to use schedule 40 PVC, it is much more expensive but will stay in place without issues for 50 years.
     
  4. PaperCutter

    PaperCutter LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,952

    I half agree with Bill- the black stuff is garbage, but you don't need to go as heavy as sch40- sewer& drain pipe (not sanitary) has a crush strength of around 3000 lbs, and is a bit cheaper than sanitary. I drive my 3/4 ton truck through my backyard all the time (don't ask) and it's never collapsed my 4" S&D downspout drains.
     
  5. Tom B.

    Tom B. LawnSite Member
    Posts: 90

    Although the corrugated allows for greater flexibility, its crush resistance is minimal. Papercutter is correct about the sewer and drain being a better choice. You could go the sch 40 route as Bill mentioned, but it does cost more. If the homeowner wants the drains to terminate in a flat area, you might want to rethink this or install a french drain to eliminate the possibility of surface water/soggy mess.
     
  6. Travel'n Trees

    Travel'n Trees LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 631

    Done properly with clean gravel I haven't seen it crush, secondly the white pvc is against alot of city codes becauses it pulls apart or breaks with ground settling. Settling can put alot of psi on pipe. Sprinkler guys try this alot around us.
     
  7. chris638

    chris638 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 149

    A couple notes after reading the post. Sch. 40 is completely not necessary. Sewer and drain is all we ever use. The drains you are referring to are called Pop-up Emitters. About 90% of the downspouts we install, we use them. They already come with 90 on them. They work great on yards because they are flush with the grade level. Don't use Corrugated Pipe. The 90 degree elbows that come with the pop-up emitters are made for sewer/drain pipe and not sch. 40.
     
  8. 04superduty

    04superduty LawnSite Member
    Posts: 60

    dont those pop up emitters not allow all the water to drain out so their is always some water left in the pipe?
     
  9. lawnscapesLLC

    lawnscapesLLC LawnSite Member
    Posts: 113

    My parents just had one of those things installed when they had their basement waterproofed. with their install there is some water left in the pipe. In my parents case it works well except for the fact that the ground around that thing is a soggy mess.
     
  10. AI Inc

    AI Inc LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 25,523

    Thats why it is realy best to let it drain into a barrel filled with gravel , drywell.
     

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