Save The Scag - It is Now Toast - Literally

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by pjm123a, Dec 2, 2012.

  1. pjm123a

    pjm123a LawnSite Member
    from FL
    Posts: 141

    Doing some sorting through what I've taken apart and posting some more pictures. The front of the engine with the big hole in the block. The CUB logo which interestingly enough has not even had the paint completely burned off it (it wants to live!!). A hyrdo hose with the rubber burned off but the metal innards and fittings are still pretty much intact. The roll-bar which seems pretty much unscathed.

    IMG_0440.jpg

    IMG_0441.jpg

    IMG_0443.jpg

    IMG_0442.jpg
     
  2. White Gardens

    White Gardens LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,776

    Seriously, your just wasting your time. Just because something appears to be ok, doesn't mean it is. Especially the pump and motors considering you toasted all the seals and such.



    .........
     
  3. pjm123a

    pjm123a LawnSite Member
    from FL
    Posts: 141

    I paid a local SCAG dealer a visit today and brought a used mower. I'm planning to use this while evaluating options on the burned mower. It is a SCAG Turf Tiger (my burned up one was a Tiger Cub). It cost me $3000 out the door (pic is attached). Would appreciate opinions on how good or bad a price this was. That this was available from a dealer for $3000 pretty much tells me there is no point in filing an insurance claim since I have a $2500 deductible. I have an 8 acre plot to mow this weekend for a friend. Before that though I want to get a fire extinguisher to carry on it (I am bit paranoid but I think it is for good reason). Forum member nnusskern said: "Im a firefighter and would recommend a ABC fire extinguisher because that will work better and will do better job on grass and electricial components". I am having trouble finding an "ABC" but there are lots of "BC". I am considering a Kidde Pro210 extinguisher:

    Pro 2A10BC multipurpose rechargeable fire extinguisher
    Pressure gauge allows for immediate pressure-status check
    UL-rated 2-A, 10-B:C
    Optional metal strap bracket part # 466400
    Durable aluminum cylinder
    Heavy-duty chrome-plated brass-valve assembly
    UL-approved wall hanger
    D.O.T. and Coast Guard (U.S.C.G.) approved when fitted with optional-mounting bracket
    Powder-coated cylinder for corrosion protection

    Does anybody have any suggestions for mounting an extinguisher on the mower? Unfortunately it does not have a roll bar.

    Thank You

    3F53I93Jf5Lb5K45Jacbd7ffc5226512f14de.jpg
     
  4. nnusskern

    nnusskern LawnSite Member
    Posts: 214

    That will work well u could mount it around your feet if you can make it fit. Or maybe on the fender. I would recommend putting it as close to you and as far away from engine as possible.
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  5. ed2hess

    ed2hess LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 13,079

    Get the caps on those front wheel casters.....water gets in them and binds em up.
     
  6. pjm123a

    pjm123a LawnSite Member
    from FL
    Posts: 141

    Thanks for the advice ed2hess. Put the caps on already. Took care of that right after the fire extinguisher. Have pulley guards on order.
     
  7. pjm123a

    pjm123a LawnSite Member
    from FL
    Posts: 141

    Started working on the chassis tonight. We scraped off all visible soot and grease with a painter's scraper. Then we wiped everything down with dry rags. After than we sprayed 3 cans of engine degreaser on it and let it foam up and sit while we made a Lowe's run to pick up 4 bags of sand (for sandblasting), a can of lacquer thinner (for final clean) and 4 cans of rustoleum primer. When we got back (after about an hour) we hosed it all off and dried it up. We then used compressed air to blow out every spot where water could be trapped. The surface is now clean to the touch. Next up - sand blasting and rattle-can priming.

    IMG_0453.jpg

    IMG_0452.jpg

    IMG_0451.jpg
     
  8. laman

    laman LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 335

    Keep info coming on this project. Definitely want to see how it comes out...
     
  9. Breezmeister

    Breezmeister LawnSite Bronze Member
    Male, from South Jersey
    Posts: 1,488

    just a heads up, there are some auto/aftermaket sprays that
    don't react well with rustoleum. Back in the day, I painted a hydro seeder tank with white rustoleum primer, then a few days later, got some blue (to match the company trucks) from pep boys. By the next morning, the blue started to wrinkle and peel. :cry:
     
  10. pjm123a

    pjm123a LawnSite Member
    from FL
    Posts: 141

    Thanks for the heads-up Breez. My plan is to use the rustoleum rattle can right after sanding and lacquering so there is no chance for any rusting to start while there is bare metal (after sanding). Prior to painting I want to go over again with more primer sprayed on with a paint gun. It will take me a while though to either buy or borrow a paint spraying rig. This give me the benefit of having 2 coats of primer. Also should allow for any light sanding if needed prior to painting. Since it is a chassis though (not like a car body) I doubt there will be much need for sanding.
     

Share This Page