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Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by pjm123a, Dec 2, 2012.
Finally starting to paint the chassis. The pic is actually of the underbelly.
Are you gonna try and have it done by next spring?
I'd bet the ACV on a 7 y/o ZTR would be $2500, maybe less. Insurers rarely give you what it's really worth. I wouldn't file a claim over such a small amount, you may wind up paying it back in higher premiums. You may also have a deductible of $1,000 or so also. They can be pretty quick to drop or raise rates over claims. They might give you one freebie, but why waste it?
Hi Weaver - It depends on if I can find a donor mower to harvest parts. I have a line on a Tiger Cub with a bent frame (highway accident). Have to see if that works out. Also, now that I have another SCAG I can also take more time.
Hi Bruno - Have already decided against the claim for exactly the reasons you cite. Also my poor Tiger Cub will probably be the last mower of it's kind that I ever buy new. Seems to me like you just take too big a hit to get to be the first one on the new shiny machine. Has been that way in cars and I am finding the same to be the case with high end machines like SCAGs. When I brought my used turf tiger, the dealer was trying to talk me into a new one. Could not believe what they go for new. Getting to be where your mower will cost more than your car!
Check with your scag dealer and rep about damaged mowers. My dealer offered me a great deal on a Freedom that fell off the forklift during shipping. I didn't want it but it was a good deal.
http://knoxville.craigslist.org/grd/3500933234.html maybe something you could use
Thank you John and Knox for the tips. I now have the chassis ready to go. It is sitting up on cinder blocks. I would like to make it a rolling chassis and get it off the blocks so I will be focusing on getting some wheels under it. I already had some spare parts for the casters and will use them. I am going to order some new roller bearings for them. I will also start doing some research on whether it is possible to install them without a press. I've been thinking for a while now of paying a visit to my local harbor freight and checking out their presses. I suspect it can be done without a press but I might run into something else while working on this that will require it eventually anyway. Might be best to just spring for it up front. Also took a look at the wheel motors. Since they were sitting below the engine (and the fire) I am hoping they are OK and going with them for now. Other than some caked on crud on their shells they look OK. They hyrdo lines were still on them and came of cleanly so new ones should go on cleanly as well. I had replaced the seals in one of them already. If they end up leaking I guess I'll try it again. For now though they are the wheel motors going on the chassis.
The bearing races I have replaced with a socket and a hammer very easy to do this way. It's harder to remove the old races than to install new ones. When installing the new ones make sure you don't drive them in past the indentations in the wheel hub.
Still working on getting my chassis to be a rolling chassis. Have mounted the wheel motors and some brake parts. While the brake linkage parts have a right and left side, I believe the wheel motors are interchangeable (there is no left or right). If anyone knows for sure I would appreciate a confirmation. The brake linkage parts were just covered with some caked on crud but even the paint was intact so I just cleaned them and the wheel motors up with some degreaser. I am also finding that the nuts an bolts clean up real well in a small ultrasonic cleaner that I usually use for motorcycle carburetors. Just water and simple green in the cleaner do a pretty good job. I've had to additionally clean the threads on a couple of bolts so far with the wire wheel on bench grinder. Also started working on the caster support assembly. Being in the front it was pretty far from the fire so it seems to be in OK shape. I will be needing new brake band assemblies though. The other thing that I am finding to be very useful is the illustrated parts list documents floating around as PDF files. I just look at them on the computer then print the pages for the area of the mower am I working on. They are quite detailed right down to the length of the bolts and really help a lot (I just bring the printouts to the garage).