Save The Scag - It is Now Toast - Literally

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by pjm123a, Dec 2, 2012.

  1. pjm123a

    pjm123a LawnSite Member
    from FL
    Posts: 141

    Hi teckjohn. Got it running today. Tried to avoid having to take off the carburetor but nothing else worked. In the end all it took was a good carb cleaning. Besides blowing compressed air through everything, I also used a carb cleaning tool I've used on motorcycles. You can get it here:
    http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/14/71/995/10115/ITEM/K-L-Carb-Cleaner-Wire-Set.aspx

    I know you are not supposed to enlarge the hoses in the jets and they are soft (brass). I am always careful to not force a cleaning wire through a jet. I've had cases particularly on motorcycles where these wires get things out that compressed air and carb cleaner leaves behind. Anyway, after the cleaning and re-assembly it fired right up and ran pretty good. There is a slight leak from the carb though (which is why I didn't want to take it off in the first place). I have ordered some new gaskets. Also one of the round plastic o-rings that hold the choke linkage on cracked. I never did like those things. I am going to try to figure out some other way to keep the choke linkage on the end of the choke rod. The only way to get the o-ring according to the parts diagram is to buy a new choke rod and I don't want to take out the one that is in there since it works fine.

    So now with a running engine and a waiting chassis I am ready to start moving components from the donor to the chassis. Here is where I could really use some advice as I have never done something like this before. I'd like to avoid mounting something onto the chassis only to find that it is in my way when I need to mount the next thing so I have to end up undoing it. What order should the major components be mounted? Should the engine go in first, last?? Is there any testing that makes sense as the assembly progresses? Would hate to get everything back together only to find out I messed something up which makes me have to take a bunch of stuff apart again. Any ideas are most welcome. I will keep posting pics. Thanks to all who have responded so far. I have read them all carefully - both those from people who think I'm crazy for trying this and those from people who have offered encouragement.
     
  2. knox gsl

    knox gsl LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,740

    I will say you don't look as crazy now.
     
  3. White Gardens

    White Gardens LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,776

    Agreed,

    I thought the OP was nuts, but finding that wrecked donor might make the whole thing worth it.



    ............
     
  4. Richard Martin

    Richard Martin LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 14,700

    Start with the front end and go from there. The last parts to install would be the rear tires, gas tanks and seat.
     
  5. pjm123a

    pjm123a LawnSite Member
    from FL
    Posts: 141

    Now that I know the donor engine runs I did a final assessment on it today. Took off the seat. You can see a picture of it sans seat. You can also see how badly the one bolt is bent. In the pic I have it almost cut through. There are also a couple of pics of the seat once it was off. It is pretty badly twisted. This now my third tiger cub seat pan. There is also a pic of the assembly that holds the caster where you can see out bent it is. The final pic is of the main rail on the driver left hand side where the parking brake lever is. You can see how the main rail is bent. The good news is that other than this frame damage everything else is there and all the major components look OK with no signs of anything leaking. I also relocated the donor so that it is now right behind my chassis. I guess I am pretty much ready to start moving the components.

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  6. pjm123a

    pjm123a LawnSite Member
    from FL
    Posts: 141

    OK, here is the chassis with the donor right behind it. I am working on getting the chassis off the blocks. Originally I had planned to use the original wheel motors. However, I took a look at a parker torqmotor service manual. It has a section on rebuilding them and one of the final tests is:
    • Check Torqmotor™ for rotation. Torque required to rotate coupling shaft should not be more than
    50 ft. lbs. (68 N m)

    My original wheel motors turned out to be quite bound up. The ones on the donor move freely so I am going with the donor's wheel motors. Down the road I will get some seal kits and try to rebuild the originals and keep them as spares. I've also got the re-painted caster assembly read to go.

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  7. pjm123a

    pjm123a LawnSite Member
    from FL
    Posts: 141

    Have some progress to report. Following Richard Martin's advice for now, I have started at the front end. The first pic shows the caster support weldment (that is what SCAG seems to call it) and the casters and tires on the front of the burned mower. The weldment was from the burned mower and re-painted. The casters themselves were from the donor mower and are original color. I think you will agree that the color matching is not too bad. The second pic is a closeup to give a better idea of the color matching. The 3rd pic shows the weldment removed from the donor mower. When I first saw it I thought the weldment was bent. It looks though as if one caster yoke took the brunt of the twisting force and bent right at the base of it's shaft (see last pic). I believe this leaves me with a potentially good weldment and one good yoke. I may keep these for spares or sell them on ebay or something to try to recoup some of my costs. Also, using the casters from the donor saved me all the hassle of dealing with bearings. I was up to almost $100 in parts (mostly bearings) to refit my original casters. As an added bonus, the casters on the donor have sold flat-free tires. Mine were stock air-filled.

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  8. Darryl G

    Darryl G LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 8,033

    You're following Richard's advice...ahahahhahahaha. Just kidding. His advice is among the best on here in my opinion. As far as the flat-free tires, you may not like them because they give a harsher ride, but no harm trying them. But if after you get it all together and if you find your teeth rattling out, that's probably the reason.
     
  9. dboyd351

    dboyd351 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,099

    My sentiments, as well.

    That and having the determination to do the job will hold you in good stead!

    Pretty work, PJM.
     
  10. pjm123a

    pjm123a LawnSite Member
    from FL
    Posts: 141

    I am feeling the positive vibes. Thanks for your comments guys. Today I got some help from my daughter who is visiting from California. The wheel motors, hubs, and brakes are squared away. Next I am going to try to move the pumps.

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