Scag clutch

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by Tharrell, Jul 1, 2008.

  1. Tharrell

    Tharrell LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,964

    I posted in the mechanics forum but no one has replied so here I am where the most traffic is, maybe someone can help.
    Yesterday my Scag walkbehind shut the blades off as I was mowing. I turned the switch off and then on and they started back up for a while. Later this method didn't work but if I let go of the opc the engine will die. Could the switch still be bad?
    I looked around for a loose wire but found nothing. Tony
     
  2. NINER

    NINER LawnSite Member
    Posts: 204

    Sounds Like The Clutch Itself Is Bad. How Many Hours Is On It And If There Is Adjusting Nuts On It Try To Turn Them A Couple Of Turns Like Tightening It Up There Should Be Three Of Them If No Adjustments Then Most Likely The Clutch Is Bad. Does The Engine Shut Off Or Want To? The Cheapest Thing To Do Would Be To Check The Fuse Then The Switch And Last The Clutch.
     
  3. ed2hess

    ed2hess LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 13,307

    I just finished debug on Scag WB with belt drive. My steps were to put a new Pto switch first. Then I replaced all the kill switches. There is one on the transmission and a second one on the Operator presence arms. I tried to use ohm meter on those kill switches but they seem flaky and yes they were defective. I also replaced the on/off switch just to have everything new. At least this will bump you along for more input.
     
  4. Tharrell

    Tharrell LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,964

    Thanks for the replies guys. It's sorta strange because everything works except the clutch itself. The engine runs, the opc cuts the engine when the pto switch is engaged. I was just wondering if the switch could still be bad even though it seems to be functioning for the opc? Can this toggle type switch be had from an auto parts store, anyone know? It's the six pin style.

    Something possibly related or not.
    It's a manual start and lately when I shut it down, I just pull the throttle all the way back and it will shut off. I've just left the key on because it has no battery. Weird I know but it is something different I've been doing lately. Tony
     
  5. NINER

    NINER LawnSite Member
    Posts: 204

    SOUNDS LIKE THE CLUTCH AND I HAVE NEVER HAD ANY LUCK FINDING THAT PTO SWITCH ANYWHERE EXCEPT THE DEALER. USUALLY WHEN THE CLUTCH IS BAD THE ENGINE SHUTS DOWN WHEN ENGAGED.
     
  6. Tharrell

    Tharrell LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,964

    Well, the only time the engine will die is if the switch is engaged and I release the opc handles, which is what it's supposed to do. This is why I'd like to test the electricals. How is it done?
    The clutch does have access windows so it is adjustable, if I could only find my darn gauges!

    Someone tell me how to check the switch and the clutch. I'm assuming all I can really test is the resistance. Tony
     
  7. bigclawn

    bigclawn LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 413

    For Gods sake just take it to a dealer--get it fixed and get back to work!!
     
  8. ed2hess

    ed2hess LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 13,307

    The clutch adjustment wouldn't make the engine die ...if the gap is too great the clutch simply won't pick. Unplug the clutch and see what ohms you have. Maybe you got a short before the clutch or in the clutch. Check each side relative to ground. I don't know what ohms a clutch but it shouldn't be shorted or open.
     
  9. Tharrell

    Tharrell LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,964

    Thanks for all the helpfull replies. Where did this BIG CLOWN come from?
    This is Lawnsite and usually members are very helpful. I had to erase my first two responses to BIG CLOWN because I didn't want to get banned from the site.
    For the rest of you guys I'm sure you understand where I'm coming from. Thanks, Tony
     

Share This Page