Scag Tiger Popping The Antifreeze Hose Out Of The Reseivor

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by M-ALFARO, Oct 4, 2007.

  1. M-ALFARO

    M-ALFARO LawnSite Member
    Posts: 7

    HI I OWN 2 SCAGS AND HERE IS THE PROBLEM WITH ONE OF THEM:

    1. IT IS OVER HEATING
    2. Hose going from the radiator to the thermostat builds a lot of pressure. ( it gets really hard / seems like it inflates )
    3. Hose going from the thermostat to the water pump builds a lot of pressure also. ( it gets really hard / seems like it inflates )
    4. Hose coming from the engine to the radiator builds up pressure also. ( it gets really hard / seems like it inflates )
    5. Hose coming from the radiator to the antifreeze reservoir pops out of the reservoir because of the pressure build up.

    I ALREADY TRIED THESE:
    1. Change thermostat
    2. Treated radiator with flush chem.

    Problem still remains.

    NOTE:
    The hose coming from the radiator to the antifreeze reservoir starts throwing air bubbles into the reservoir and when it gets really hot it pops out of the reservoir, I was told by dealer it is due to boiling antifreeze inside radiator which makes good sense to me. They told me since there is no circulation of antifreeze it might be a clogged radiator or water pump failure. Like I've said I've flushed the radiator and problems persists, any one knows how to test the water pump??? the radiator cap does not have to do anything with this???

    thank you for taking the time of reading this and i hope to get a little help to resolve this problem.
     
  2. topsites

    topsites LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 21,654

    Almost all engines draw water from the bottom of the radiator and return it through the top.
    A few do it backwards (The late 80's vw golf 1.8L is one), but this is so rare that it is safe to assume yours follows the norm.

    So it's really easy to test the water pump with a COLD engine what you do is first drain all of the antifreeze into a container, then remove the thermostat entirely and re-assemble the housing so you have a closed water system but without thermostat, then disconnect the TOP radiator hose AT the radiator, refill the system with water and start the engine...
    So long water comes pouring out of that top hose and keeps flowing, it is working.

    Don't run the engine for more than a minute or two, really you should be able to see what you need in short order.

    And of course, follow all safety precautions with antifreeze.
     
  3. DiyDave

    DiyDave LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,695

    Take the rad cap off. Start engine. Question is are there any bubbles in the antifreeze solution. If there are, you could have a blown head gasket. To test for a blown head gasket, there is a kit that checks for the presence of CO in antifreeze. That is the direction that I would take, just my $.02.:waving:
     
  4. P.Services

    P.Services LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,325

    how long does it take for all this to start. instant or not until it is warm?
     
  5. DiyDave

    DiyDave LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,695

    It might take a while, but if you see a lot of bubbles/foam, when its cold, its a lead pipe cinch, so to speak. That's why the test kit helps.
     
  6. M-ALFARO

    M-ALFARO LawnSite Member
    Posts: 7

    OK the bubbles start to come out of the hose from the radiator to the reservoir when the engine starts to heat up ( the temp gauge reaches the middle in the meter )
    I've treated the radiator with a flush kit to de-clog it so now I get lots of bubbles and white foam. I'm assuming the foam comes from the flush i put in.

    I did try the test of the water pump (as described by topsites ) and I've noticed there is no circulation of antifreeze an interesting thing I've noticed also was that the hose that connects from the thermostat to the water pump gets pressure (inflated like) and if i connect all the hoses and put the radiator cap on all the hoses get (inflated like) and bubbles start to come out of the hose that goes from the radiator to the antifreeze resevoir.

    Seeing no circulation in the antifreeze what are the chances the water pump is gone??

    When I called the tech support they told me it is very rare for the water pump to fail.

    Thank you for your time and help. Have a great day!!!
     
  7. P.Services

    P.Services LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,325

    yes very very very rare for a water pump to go, and i can tell you it is a pain in the a to replace it(at least on mine it was). dont get mad about this question but the radiator is not packed full of leaves, grass and junk is it?
     
  8. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,024

    Believe it or not a faulty (non sealing) radiator cap can in deed cause ALL the symptoms you are describing, I have seen it all too many times.

    Think about it; The hotter rubber gets the more it will expand, Solve the over heating problem and the hoses will most likely not expand as much.

    Just something cheap to try !


    Edit; Just because you flushed the radiator with some cleaner doesn't mean it removed all the scale that could be clogging the core, That's why radiator shops ROD the cores to remove the scale.
     
  9. tomo

    tomo LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 660

    hello, i agree with all said b4 .
    1/ using a radiater flush will introduce chemicals to cooling system and cause foaming etc IDEALY THEY SHOULD BE FLUSHED WITH A MIX OF AIR /WATER THRU A ""FLUSHING GUN"""

    LEAVING THE FLUSH AGENT IN THE COOLING SYSTEM IS A RECIPE 4 DISASTER

    IF U R USING AN AGGRESIVE TYPE IT WILL SEND ALL DISLODGED CORROSION INTO THE RAD TUBES

    aFTER USING A CHEMICAL BASED CLEANER AND IT IS FLUSHED OUT PROPERLY A PRESSURE TEST OF COOLING SYSTEM IS REQUIRED . u MAY HAVE ENCOURAGED POTENTIAL LEAKS AS ALL THE SEALING FOREIGN MATERIAL HAS NOW BEEN REMOVED.

    Biggest cause of cooling system failure is either 1/poor maintenance practices
    2/ lack of maintenance

    A radiater cap allows the engine to operate above 212f ,the amount is determined by the pressure rating of the cap .
    Some engines r designed to run around 180f but some will be around 210f

    Blown head gasket can be checked as follows

    Use a leak checker that u hold on the rad neck . It is filled with chemical and changes colour if combustion gases r present .
    Use in addition to above is to pressure test cooling system with the spark plugs/glow plugs removed . Then crank the engine over and u may see water exit the plug holes in a real hurry if so there is a problem ...

    Some times with a water pump the impellor can spin on the shaft and or it can be corroded away . Finally a leak can develop from the shaft seal and leak externally .

    tomo:waving:
     
  10. DiyDave

    DiyDave LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,695

    but the test he describes is the same one I was talking about. The test cylinder is placed on top of the rad neck, you pour in a blue liquid, allow motor to run for a while, if you have exhaust gasses getting into (and pressurizing the cooling system), the fluid changes color. A positive on this test could also mean a cracked block, warped head, bad head gasket, cracked sleeve, plus some others that I haven't thought of because I CRS. Another thing to check is the thermostat itself. Check for scoring(scratches on the side of the moving part), correct thermostat, and does it open at the correct temp.:dizzy:
     

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