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Seaweed Science

Discussion in 'Organic Lawn Care' started by Gerry Miller, Oct 23, 2007.

  1. Prolawnservice

    Prolawnservice LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 612

    oow oow :waving: , can I answer if Gerry doesn't.
    While Gerry tries to provide good information he tends to do it in a confrontational way, maybe he just likes to debate, or maybe he's trying to overcome some inadequacies. Regardless its not nice to back people into a corner and make them not want to come back anymore because you belive differently, or that person isn't as knowledgeable as you think they should be. In closing, "can't we all just get along".:clapping:
     
  2. Gerry Miller

    Gerry Miller LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 504

    Like I've said before, you are clueless. You have no idea at all about soil biology and the soil foodweb. Since you don't understand what I've posted, you've confirmed my belief, again, you are nothing but a waste of time! But it's obvious, you need to get yourself up to speed on a number of things.
     
  3. Kiril

    Kiril LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 18,298

    And once again Gerry, avoiding the issue presented to you, which in case you forgot, was how would you get rid of the weeds in the pictures using compost tea. Heck, I would even accept ANY feasible organic method. Guess you just lost that job.

    BTW Gerry, I find it amusing how you "skillfully" dodge every single question that I have presented to you. If you truly understood what you were talking about, those questions would have been easily answered.

    Let's ask a few more basic questions.

    1) There are two types of compaction. What are they and how are they caused?

    2) What are the potential problems associated with hardpans?

    3) What is the difference between primary and secondary succession?

    4) What are the other possible salt inputs to a landscape that are not related to fertilizers (inorganic or organic)?

    5) Explain the relationships between oxygen availability as it relates to soil particle size and soil water holding capacity.
     
  4. tadhussey

    tadhussey LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 294

    Are these trees and shrubs thriving? How close are they to the photo you provided? It is possible that there may be more fungi in those areas, but it does not suggest a good balance or fungal dominance.
     
  5. Prolawnservice

    Prolawnservice LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 612

    tad, let Gerry answer, c'mon Gerry show us what you got, can you walk the walk, and is there really any need for name calling.
     
  6. tadhussey

    tadhussey LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 294

    I hate that the posts lately have become an issue of who knows more, rather than the shared exploration of knowledge, that I think was the original intent.

    How about both sides call it a truce and we can stop the name calling and antagonistic posts....any takers? *trucewhiteflag*
     
  7. Michael J. Donovan

    Michael J. Donovan Head Moderator, Online Communities Staff Member
    Posts: 3,341


    I completely agree...I believe all can get along and give their opinions without having to attack or "one up" the other person...will also save on editing and deleting :laugh:

    have a good one
     
  8. Kiril

    Kiril LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 18,298

    I completely agree. I'm not trying to one up anyone, or even trying to be overly adversarial given the posts directed at me. I have this pet peeve about facts, and when I see people not getting them straight, I'm going to point it out.

    I have tried everything I can think of under the sun to provide an acceptable means of pointing out some of the errors in Gerry's posts. However, everything I post is met with ridiculed and personal attacks, even when I quote references from his own sources. My last resort is to provide questions related to the errors in the hope it will lead Gerry to do his own investigations and perhaps see where he when wrong.
     
  9. Kiril

    Kiril LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 18,298

    Yes, they are fine. You can see the once tree "shrubs" at the top of the photo, the old trees that used to be there were in the middle of the photo, to the left the arrow points roughly where the mushrooms were, and there is a nice birch to the left of that arrow, you can barely see one of the branches in the second photo. Also keep in mind this site is classified as a class 1 or 2 soil.

    Let me reiterate here. I am not looking for the why here, I'm fairly certain I know why, and to be honest, it really has little to do with biology at this point. As I said before, this is an issue of management, more specifically the weeds were not dealt with initially, and were allowed to propagate.

    The problem was presented as a question of how to get rid of the weeds without pesticides given the recommendations presented by Gerry. I can think of at least two "organic" methods that will very likely rid the area of weeds permanently and I won't be fighting with organic methods of weed control that may or may not work given the extent of weeds in the area. The other option is to use a combination of conventional and organic approaches.

    I am however confused why you are suggesting fungal dominance is preferable when Dr. Ingham suggests bacterial dominance is preferable in turf?

    DSCN1725.jpg

    DSCN1724.jpg
     
  10. Gerry Miller

    Gerry Miller LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 504

    The reason fungal dominated tea is suggested is that unfortunately, most people have killed off much, if not all, of the fungi in their soil from too much use of fungicides, synthetic chemical fertilizers that contain salt, other synthetic chemicals herbicides and pesticides,tilling in ag, all cause a decline of fungi in the soil. Bacteria have less of a problem, in most cases, to re-establish themselves, much more so than fungi. After your soil is in balance, then a slightly bacterial dominant AACT would then be recommended.
     

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