Seed In Late Spring

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by showags, Apr 29, 2013.

  1. showags

    showags LawnSite Member
    Posts: 10

    Had some tall fescue invade the lawn last year after a storm took some trees. It's just spotty but I want to get it out of there. I sprayed the areas with Round Up and am planning on repairing will removal, soil/compost and seed. I am going to use a starter fert with siduron since I did have an issue with CG last year (my personal house moved into last year and playing catch-up as the lawn was left for a year - foreclosure).

    With that, I am going with a KBG/PR mix (full sun) seed that I get from a gulf course supplier (great results last year overseeding). The question is, after the initial siduron, once the grass is established, can I go back to Dimension for my second CG app (again, known issue) about 6 weeks after without damaging the new grass? It is assuming it is actively growing/already germinated.

    Any other tips would be helpful for those dealing with TF in cool season turf (Twin Cities, MN). I know Fall is best for seeding (plan to aerate/overseed again in the fall), but I need to fill the lawn up before the weeds get it.
    Thanks
     
  2. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,932

    last year I tried crabgrass control on new seed. Sept 1 2011. See this link.
    http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=401422&highlight=dimension+seed

    It appears 23 days old is enough establishment to withstand Dimension (dithiopyr). Perennial ryegrass was planted. It grows rapidly. I used near ideal, very warm, moist conditions in containers. It would have been about 5 inches tall.
    I hope to repeat the test this year. But it is difficult to apply an accurate amount in such small containers.

    However, it may be possible to use Dimension after two mowings. The window for treatment when the grass strong enough, but before crabgrass germinates may be very small. Using Tupersan (siduron) should allow successful treatment by allowing the Dimension to be applied later. Dithiopyr.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2013
  3. showags

    showags LawnSite Member
    Posts: 10

    Thank You for the reply riggle. That was my exact thought with supplementing the dimension with the siduron.

    After reading some of your other tests it begs the question. Do you think that the old stuff needs to be dug out if sufficiently killed? Or would a scalp(with shovel), losen up, seed, cover with compost/peat be sufficient? Theoretically the gly from the RU will kill the roots also, but do I run the risk of them redeveloping?

    Thanks Again
     
  4. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,932

    I suppose there is a risk that the tall fescue might come back. Yes, the clumps after they are killed probably have to be dug out. I am not sure what would work in your particular situation and what equipment you have or your costs and hours of labor to do each step.
    I am a proponent of using plenty of seed; works nice when overseeding crabgrass in fall...perhaps double or triple the recommended amount...because if conditions are less than optimal, you will still get plenty of grass. For instance--when overseeding Bermuda with perennial rye on golf courses in the south, they sometimes use up to 20 pounds of seed per 1000 sqft.
     
  5. showags

    showags LawnSite Member
    Posts: 10

    This is my own, private lawn so labor/time isn't a concern. It is only a few spots so I would rather take more time and do it thorough. I will go with the dig all the way out method.

    Thanks
     

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