selling aeration AND overseeding in the spring

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by djlunchbox, Feb 25, 2011.

  1. GreenI.A.

    GreenI.A. LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,132

    If you pre-m first aeration will cause the active ingredient to prematurely break down. The issue I have with it is that pre-emergents and aeration both stress the root system. Both are great on there own but added together the equal alot of stress especially If there is no irrigation system. If an aeration is badly needed then go for it. But otherwise I would hold the aeration off till fall. Just my. 02
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  2. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,080

    That makes sense... :)
     
  3. aeration

    aeration LawnSite Member
    from Indiana
    Posts: 68

    According to research sent to me from Purdue, aeration has little affect on the pre-m.
     
  4. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,080

    So does the Purdue literature, talk about how deeply it goes into the soil?
    And
    How it acts on top of thatch?
     
  5. elundgren

    elundgren LawnSite Member
    Posts: 1

    In my experience, I have found that keeping the lawn on a schedule is the key. Seed, starter fertilizer and lime in the Fall. Pre-emergent in the Spring. Periodic fertilizing in-between.

    Where I get screwed up is when something has to occur off schedule.

    I have a couple lawns where the Fall seeding did not take hold in many of the bare spots. Now that the Spring has arrived, I need to put down a pre-emergent but still have to deal with the numerous bare spots.

    Any suggestions?
     
  6. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,080

    Depends on how much time you got to get cool season grasses growing, before the CG would start up. Or play with the barespots after the pre-m and hope for th best...
     
  7. Exact Rototilling

    Exact Rototilling LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,354

    http://www.agry.purdue.edu/turf/pubs/AY-8.pdf

    This Purdue publication has basically zero mention of the effect of cores left on the lawn and how the soil microbes helping to breakdown thatch. There is mention of 2" - 3" plug depth but they also mention 20 - 40 holes per square foot. A double pass with a Plugr 800 series will get it to 16 plugs per square foot if there are no holes in holes. Ryan 28 is at 17 plugs per square foot on a double pass mathematically.

    A double pass with many of the rolling tine units is still at 12 per square foot or less.
     
  8. GreenI.A.

    GreenI.A. LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,132

    Say the holes were only 1" in diameter, at 40 per sq foot that would be the same as 10 plugs in a 6" x 6" area, or over 1/4 of the surcace being plugged. That would destroy the turf pulling that many plugs, you just cut up more than 1/4 of the root system. Maybe for an extreamly compacted area that you are going to seed from scratch, yes, but I can not see doing that to an existing turf that you are aerating and overseeding
     
  9. Exact Rototilling

    Exact Rototilling LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,354

    Agreed I think a double pass with a plugr 8xx or Ryan 28 is optimal. Can't be exceed with standard rolling time units unless a fourth pass is done.
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  10. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,080

    From the Purdue URL:

    "...Too much thatch interferes with
    water and air movement, reduces fertilizer and
    pesticide response, and increases disease and insect
    activity. Eventually, roots may start growing in the
    thatch, and since thatch does not hold much water,
    the turf then becomes very susceptible to cold, heat
    and drought stresses."

    This quote addresses half of my question, but not in a very definitive way... :)
     

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