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Sharpening Blade

Discussion in 'eXmark' started by jajwrigh, Jan 24, 2004.

  1. jajwrigh

    jajwrigh LawnSite Bronze Member
    Male, from Martinsville, IN
    Posts: 1,405

    What is the recomended way to sharpen the blade on my Metro. Should I leave it on the mower or remove it?
  2. eXmark

    eXmark Manufacturer / Sponsor
    Posts: 4,258


    Thanks again for the post. This is one that sounds simple to some but is probably one of our most often asked questions. I'll give you all the secrets in the mysterious art of blade sharpening. Just kidding there aren't any secrets.

    Yes, you should remove the blade. The best way to sharpen the blade (the exception is some mulching blades) is to use a commercial grinder designed specifically for sharpening blades. These are available under many brands and do a great job of maintaining blade angle and not over heating the steel.

    Most standard bench grinders come with course, hard stones that remove a great deal of metal and create a great deal of heat. The heat created removes the hardness built into the blade during the heat treating process when the blade was manufactured. It's easy to tell if the blade has gotten hot. The tell tail sign is a black, brown or blue coloration on or near the area that you've been grinding on.

    After a blade specific grinder I like the 4" hand grinders. They generally come with much softer wheels, are easy to handle and relatively inexpensive. Simply place the blade in a bench vise and grind away. Generally you want to maintain about 1/4" of shine on the surface of the blade. This 1/4" translates into the approximate angle that the blade would have had on it from the factory.

    After that I'd use a hand file. The hand file is tedious but it works great.

    My least favorite blade sharpening tool is the standard bench grinder for the reasons mentioned earlier.

    Once you've sharpened the blade you should also check to ensure that it is straight and balanced. A bent blade should not be used or straightened it should be replaced. If you find the blade is out of balance you should grind a little more material off the cutting edge as needed. For blade balancers the Magnamatic is as good a blade balancer as I've see but the $4 cone balancers are better than nothing at all.

    Please let me know if I can be of any further assistance.


  3. BigDave

    BigDave LawnSite Member
    Posts: 148


    That was an awesome explanation. I hope you know how valuable your explanations are to *lots* of people.

    A quick follow-up question.

    Typically I will put a blade on the cone and spin the blade a little. If the blade is unbalanced *length-wise* (a blade is about 20" long), I balance it.

    BUT, how about if the blade is unbalanaced *width-wise* (a blade is about 3" wide)? Should I worry about this?

    Thanks once again,
  4. jaywpowers

    jaywpowers LawnSite Member
    Posts: 2

    a small hand grinder works great, but i hate the large amount of steel dust that gets all over the area, tools, bench, and anything else that is exposed. ill stay with the blade grinder that has a vacume and filter in it. thanks jwp
  5. greg250

    greg250 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 7

    I have had very good luck with my dremel for shapening blades. Works really good and does not take off too much material
  6. TClawn

    TClawn LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,036

    greg 250, what attachment do you use on the dremel?
  7. greg250

    greg250 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 7

    I use the orangish/tan colored cylinder shaped grinding stone in the dremel. I'll try to find the package with the part number on it
  8. TClawn

    TClawn LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,036

    if you get the number please PM me with the part number.

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