skip the crabgrass control on healthy turf?

Discussion in 'Fertilizer Application' started by robertb_44, Jun 9, 2014.

  1. nighthawk117

    nighthawk117 LawnSite Senior Member
    from MA
    Posts: 275

    Year in and year out, homeowners just don't listen, you are 100% right. Some lawns we get there to treat and they are 8" tall, we do our thing and leave a notice with the concerns. I get a call a couple days later " what did you do to our lawn" ? I go out and see that the mow guy came and cut it at 2 1/2 " , I show the homeowner the pic I took with a tape measure on their lawn when I treated . :nono:
  2. americanlawn

    americanlawn LawnSite Fanatic
    from midwest
    Posts: 5,854

    I sprayed a new sign-up couple days ago. She was a customer last year, but was trying to save money. But she finally gave in cuz her lawn was thin & weedy. Crabgrass was already present, but I was not about to spray it with what she really needed..... What she really needed was a blend of expensive liquid Dimension, expensive liquid broadleaf weed controls, and expensive slow release liquid fertilizers. 11,000 sq ft for $49.00.
    I told her up front about this, cuz cost was an issue for her. (Nice lady)

    Conversely >> about 3 years ago -- had a guy call our office complaining that I was "measuring his cutting height".

    1) Rang the doorbell
    2) Guy comes to the door
    3) I told him I was there cuz he called in to complain about his weeds & "lousy lawn".
    4) Guy said, "None of my neighbors do anything". "All my neighbors' lawns are better than mine". "What am I paying your for"?

    Cutting height (main lawn) was 1 1/2 inches. Cutting height along curb = less than 1/2 inch.

    I've been in this business since the late 70's, and this was the first and only time a person called our office because "I used a tape measure on his lawn". (This really upset the guy)

    We found out in the end that this guy was a renter. He was later kicked out for "non payment" of rent. Funny this is -- we currently treat this lawn twice a year for the landlord. :laugh:
  3. ProStreetCamaro

    ProStreetCamaro LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,148

    I have a funny for you guys. We bought this house 3 years ago in real early spring. First thing I did was fertilize 19-0-6 with dimension. No crabgrass at all that summer. The next spring I decide "maybe this lawn doesn't need a pre" so I just fertilized it. MISTAKE! Crabgrass city! I used quincept along with basagran (tons of yellow nutsedge) and mso. That combo hammered every weed, crabgrass and every blade of nutsedge in my 2 acre lawn. The lawn looked terrible afterward with all the dead crabgrass. This spring I went back to 19-0-6 with dimension and have no crabgrass at all. The nutsedge is also much less than the previous 2 years after treating it the last 2 years with basagran. I am about to treat it again soon. Maybe a couple more years and I will have the sedge taken care of.

    My biggest problem here is disease. I cut for a living and know what I am doing but my lawn for some reason gets disease (VERY BAD) every year. It boggles my mind because my soil is incredible and my lawn grows so fast most of the year I cut it twice a week. 3" in the spring (verified height, razor sharp blades and correctly pitched deck) and 3.5" in the summer. Disease city worse than any of our 70 customers. I only fertilize it in the spring along with the pre. It grows so fast on its own I hate the thought of fertilizing any more and have seriously thought about not fertilizing at all and just applying pre by itself.



    Summer. I cut it with the JD Demo in this picture.


    I live down in a hollow and the dew here every morning is out of this world. That is the only explanation I can come up with. Any ideas? The last 2 falls I have aerated and seeded the front with this combo. I am wondering if the established grass when we bought it was an older less disease resistant strain. Maybe even K31 because much of it seems to be a very thick blade tall fescue. Here is what I have used the last 2 falls. Now I have a lot of much thinner bladed grass mixed in. I was told by my supplier (newsome) that the 10% of thermal blue is actually equivalent to 50% because the thermal blue seeds are very small compared to the fescue seeds. Looking at it does indeed appear to have a ton of very small seeds compared to the rest. I forgot I do apply a strong starter fert in the fall when I seed so it gets fert twice a year.


    Last edited: Jun 29, 2014
  4. DA Quality Lawn & YS

    DA Quality Lawn & YS LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 8,899

    ProStreet what diseases are you getting in that stand of turf?
  5. WenzelOSLLC

    WenzelOSLLC LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 709


    Have you tried applying any products to help with dew?
  6. ProStreetCamaro

    ProStreetCamaro LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,148

    Red thread and brown patch I believe.
  7. mishmosh

    mishmosh LawnSite Member
    from OH
    Posts: 45

    Not just the homeowner. Pushing core aeration for no reason or because you overfertilized or they over watered is a recipe for ongoing crabgrass problems. Maintain a healthy stand at a good mowing height with no core aeration--no crabgrass. Without the root pruning effects of pre-m, of course the lawn is better off for it.
  8. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 12,235

    Not sure, but I suspect mowing grass when wet if the temps are warm and humid--may result in fungus infection of the cut leaf blades. Not serious, but it gives a brownish color due to the first quarter-inch of the leaf blade turning brown.
    Has anybody else seen this?

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