Smart Line minor annoyance... question

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by irrig8r, Apr 4, 2008.

  1. irrig8r

    irrig8r LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,535

    I was working on troubleshooting a job where I installed a Smartline 1600 last year.

    Three RB PEB valves were not working, within 10 ft. of a brand new parking lot light pole... With a little digging I exposed a 1-1/4" lateral line next to it, away from the stub of the old steel post and the new concrete supporting the new one.

    With my Tempo 508 I traced the line to within 1 ft. of the post, and picked up a really weak signal beyond it back almost to the controller.

    Mainline and wiring must be 18" or more deep in the area. I know I was right on top of it.. but thick redwood roots were all over the place.

    To double check I ran a temporary cable from end of the common in the valve box back to the other end of same common (disconnected from the clock) to check for continuity, and that indicated an open circuit.

    So, I used that same multi-strand cable for a temporary connection to the valves, just to get some water going.... then I realized I couldn't test the SL until I closed the door, which I couldn't do with the wires still hooked up.

    I ended up drilling a hole though one of the unused knockouts in the box to accommodate the cable...

    So hear's my question (finally)...

    Is there a cable one can run temporarily, from the back of the SL panel to the connector behind it, in order to run the clock with the wiring compartment exposed and serviceable?

    BTW, I ended up running 140 ft. of cable, under a sidewalk and then above ground in 1/2" conduit along the bottom of a fence to keep the squirrels from chewing it. Roots everywhere made it hard to find another solution.
  2. good question on the cable extension.....
  3. Seems like I talked to a contractor concerning pigtail stuff several years ago who had the same complaint and said WM was sending him out cables that allowed the panel to be open. The batteries don't last long in SLs because of the backlight display.

    We are in the habit of automatically disconnecting the battery if the panel will be open for awhile. I'll go to my computer off the shelf place and see if they sell extension ribbons.
  4. Kiril

    Kiril LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 18,308

    Use the test screw to test the valve.
  5. irrig8r

    irrig8r LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,535

    It was clear from the start it was a wiring/ connection/ maybe solenoid problem.

    The SL has a nice feature that measures MA and indicates open circuits. Supposedly it's more accurate than testing resistance with your ohmeter.

    All three vaves are working now with new wires.
  6. Mike Leary

    Mike Leary LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 21,985

    Sweet, Rain Master & Calsense have the same read outs. Wonder
    if WM will be smart enough to have that in their remote?
  7. Kiril

    Kiril LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 18,308

    Sorry, I thought you were talking about testing valve operation with your temporary wire.
  8. EagleLandscape

    EagleLandscape LawnSite Platinum Member
    Male, from Garland, Texas
    Posts: 4,347

    Yah, I just stick them up through the knockout... Or, stub out a few wires and then tie into those wires. That way I can work with the controller face shut.

Share This Page