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Soil Health

Discussion in 'Organic Lawn Care' started by phasthound, May 27, 2012.

  1. Skipster

    Skipster LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,074

    To go back to the topic of soil health, I think the main issue here is soil organic matter and proper plant nutrition. No matter which side of the fence you come down on with regards to mycorrhizal inoculation or microbial introduction, all sources (those for and against adding biologicals) emphasize that some level of organic matter is needed to support biological processes and that poor soil nutrient status leads to poor plant health.
     
  2. Duekster

    Duekster LawnSite Fanatic
    from DFW, TX
    Posts: 7,961

    That would be a priority in all cases where the soil barren. No argument there. Those are primary tools.
    not sure I deviated from the discussion
     
  3. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,081

    Soil health or value would have a lot to do with soil structure regardless of soil texture... OM makes the difference between dirt vs. soil IMO...

    Dumping NPK on dirt that has no CE sites to either hold the ferts for transfer or indeed be available for transfer to the plant in adequate amounts is a waste of NPK and leaves the lawncare guy blaming those evil contractors...

    Compacted clay vs. sandy sieve would be handled differently in order to make it healthy, and dumping microbes onto it without food or regard to habitat is no different than dumping NPK w/out regard to CEC... :)
     
  4. Duekster

    Duekster LawnSite Fanatic
    from DFW, TX
    Posts: 7,961

    so you withhold the plant food because the soil is poor?
     
  5. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,081

    :laugh: Yes... That's exactly right... :laugh:
     
  6.  
  7. Lot of facters, But an important one is soil tpye, and the soil chemistry
     

  8. I basical agree, but you need to spoon feed the turf, not dump npk
     
  9. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,081

    I prefer to build soil fertility that doesn't require constant input... I work towards a mature lawn that doesn't need constant irrigation, because I have lawns w/out irrigation...

    I feed once in the mid-late Spring, before the heat and twice in the Fall, one of which is winterizer @ the rate of .5 lbs/k... If I see a need I can bump it up another .5/k before winter, but not likely... no dumping NPK and no spoon-feeding...

    The health of the grass depends on the health of the soil, so my cultural practices accomplish those 2 things first... later we do the all important Packer Green turf color, which works well w/out creating living thatch if the first 2 things are done correctly... :)
     

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