Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by Smallaxe, Jun 28, 2012.
That is the Certinty and Outrider ?
Yes. As well as Celsius, Manor, Monument, and Revolver. I also would never throw in fertilizer with those types of treatments because they are applied at 1 gallon per 1000 with 1/2% MSO. I am paid enough per lawn not to have to throw in the kitchen sink and apply it as a single application. Nothing like the cool season guys.
I am pretty lazy
On the Outrider, I see for Hand Held up two gallons per 1K
I also see 10 to 50 Gallons per AC so I see your point there.
I also see that MSO can worsen the yellowing.
Not really lazy, I often do not include Certainty with heavy fert apps, I do it before complete green up to get rid of grassy weeds. I will include the Bio pack to kick start the soil activity as the Bermuda is transitioning.
MSO and fertilizer or MSO + iron is a bad idea. I want the MSO to guard against treatment failure. Have not seen any yellowing from using MSO with herbicides. But those are lawns managed under my rules. If it is the homeowner's rules or a bureaucrat's rules no guarantees.
Outside of the trace urea blended with your various adjuncts, how much do you try to put down and in how many treatments excluding herbicides?
I think with our growing season and other market pressure 9 is our max including weed control. I need to get close to 4 pounds of N down and no less than 3 pounds of N.
N is dependent on grass species. But it is applied in 10-12 applications per year. I normally need 3-4 applications that are weed control. The preemergent and the soil active products may be added to a fertilizer application. Otherwise, it is safe to say that I am at a lawn every 21-30 days.
In that many applications per year, it is not hard to correct soil chemistry vs trying to do it all in 4 or less.
I agree on both accounts, However I have dormancy issues you do not.
Correcting is also not a single season issue. Here anyway.
One of our best Pre-EM times is when dormant but I can add a post if needed. Crab grass starts earlier than most of our grasses.
For sake of this or future discussion with me assume Bermuda. If SA or Zoysia I will call it out.
Thanks for clearing that up. Bermuda needs at least 8lb of N in my area per year. 12 lb is for lawns that must be really green. I prescribe up to 18 per year on sports fields. My soil correction often occurs over 2 years. It did not happen over night and it was never addressed by the slow release 4 feedings a year cowboys.
My Pre M time happens in the "winter" months as well. Due to the short days and clouds, grass opens up allowing weeds to come in. I do not like to have to spray postemergents in December-June because it is severely windy in those months.
I am getting where I do not like post at all. Accounts that I have treated for a year or so, I can spot. Many Broads, I can pull pretty quick in my established programs.
One lawn, back the original subject that has been aerated and top dressed two has no weeds and no post is used. Took two years to get the turf tight and it keeps out all weeds except other Bermuda of lesser quality.