soil test

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by dacoach, Aug 18, 2007.

  1. dacoach

    dacoach LawnSite Member
    Posts: 26

    Here are some details.

    New construction lawn
    bluegrass, rye, fescue
    1.5 years old of neglect and I just bought it in june.
    I put down some iron and it did nothing and then took a soil sample.

    Here it goes:

    organtic matter--------1.6
    p,1--------------------16
    p,2--------------------102
    p----------------------14
    k----------------------229
    mg--------------------567
    ca--------------------2532
    na--------------------51
    ph--------------------7.9
    c.e.c.-----------------18.2
    k%--------------------3.2
    mg%------------------26
    ca%------------------69.6
    h%--------------------0
    na%------------------1.2

    nitrate
    ppm-------------------3
    lbs/a------------------5
    excess lime rate-------low
    soluble salts-----------0.4


    Soil tests were done at Midwest labs

    suggestions were

    n----------3.33/1000
    phosphate--.92/1000

    I plan to plug the lawn about the 1st of september and put down what ever I need. I was also thinking of using some turface. I go to a commercial warehouse to get all my supplies. After I add the suggestions what should I add to help maintain this clay lawn down the road.

    omaha nebraska area Thanks everyone, Lawnsite is great.
     
  2. rcreech

    rcreech Sponsor
    Male, from OHIO
    Posts: 6,072

    WELL LAWN FRIENDS.......HERE WE GO AGAIN! ANOTHER THREAD ON SOOOOOOIIIIILLLLLLLLLLL TEEEEEEEESSSSSSTTTTSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    dcoach,

    How big is the lawn area? If it is too bad I would recommend seeding since you are going to aerate anyway!

    Soil test results are not too bad, but the pH is a little high! If you want a simple approach....I would plug it really well going several directions and overseed it and use a starter fertilizer. I would look at putting down 200# of 15-15-15 (a great starter and very economical and general use fertilizer) at seeding which will add a little P and K while also helping the young seedling to germinate and go!

    Make sure and mow your lawn VERY SHORT (1.5" or so) before you aerate and overseed! This will allow your new seedlings to germ and grow with less competition from the existing lawn.

    Come in about 3-4 weeks later and hit it again with another 200# of 15-15-15.
    That is what I would do! You should have a great lawn come next spring!

    Then you can get on a standard program using weed control and a good SCU fert for slow release feeding next year.
     
  3. dacoach

    dacoach LawnSite Member
    Posts: 26

    Thanks, The lawn is only about 4000 sq.ft. Most people would love to have a green looking lawn right now which mine is. It is not a perfect lawn which I used to take care of years ago for some residence( personal property care taker). These new builder compacted clay soils got me stumped. Isn't my mg and k to high and should I add some sulpher to bring down the ph a little to start with? The back looks ok but the front looks terrible to me. uneven, light colored unhealthy looking grass.

    Thanks
     
  4. ffemtmcd

    ffemtmcd LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 532

    dacoach - i had a soil test come out with a 7.8 ph for an area "known for being acidic". I have added sulpher at 3 lbs/1000 so far and they suggest 20-25 lbs /1000 no more than 5lbs/1000 at a time. So I'm ging to try about 4 more applicatoins and see what happens - can't really hurt, maybe even help out with the fungus stuff (supposedly).
     
  5. dacoach

    dacoach LawnSite Member
    Posts: 26

    how far apart are the applications going to be?
     
  6. ffemtmcd

    ffemtmcd LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 532

    Not real sure - I figure on doing 2 per year, 1 in the spring and 1 in fall. unless I learn something different here.
     
  7. rcreech

    rcreech Sponsor
    Male, from OHIO
    Posts: 6,072

    Are your results reported as ppm or %? That is important to know as I didn't ask!

    As far as adding Sulfur to lower your pH, it can be done but you have to add it in very small amounts as stated and it will take a while!

    From what Purdue says pH really isn't worth changing unless it is greater the 8! Just keep the Nitrogen and Iron to it and it should green up.

    You state you have added Iron but have you added any Nitrogen?
     
  8. Was wondering if the sample reports was in ppm, lbs/a, or both!

    What depth was the sample taken, and did you inform the lab the depth of sample?

    Your ph is higher than you would like, adding sulfer may help, but check your water, it maybe have a high ph
     
  9. dacoach

    dacoach LawnSite Member
    Posts: 26

    sorry guys

    phosphorus was in ppm
    k= 229 ppm
    mg= 567 ppm
    ca= 2532 ppm

    I told them the depth of 6 inches which shows up on the results

    I am on omaha city water which is pretty decent. But I do have to test next week. I use a commercial place to get my products. What do you sugest?

    Thanks for all your help.

    By the way. It has been hot here and I tried some Q4 to get rid of some foxtail and crabgrass and man did it fry it and no harm at all with the bluegrass, rye and fescue mixture(89-92 degrees out). I did a test spot 10 days ago and sprayed the rest of the lawn this morning. I will post some pictures of the results in a couple of weeks.

    Thanks for all your help with this lawn. What do you think about the turface?
     
  10. heritage

    heritage LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,283

    Dacoach,

    Apply 25 Lbs per 1000 of Gypsum now(buy 2 50 lb bags). For Calcium to lower your Mg level and for the Sulfate to help with the greening process.

    In 2 weeks or so,right after you core plug, apply Starter Fertilizer 18-24-12 at 5 lbs per 1000. Apply once more Oct 15th at same rate. One 50 lb bag will be enough for both times.

    Could you take a "Before and After" picture, and post what lawn looks like now and again Oct 1st.


    Enjoy the nice Turf!

    Pete D.
     

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