Spindle Pulley Question!

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by nsrwholesale, Aug 15, 2011.

  1. nsrwholesale

    nsrwholesale LawnSite Member
    Posts: 13

    I am trying to replace the 3 spindles on my 2002 eXmark Lazer Z 52"...


    Just one question (Most likely more to come :) lol), do you have to remove the key on/in the pulley before you can take the pulley off, or does the pulley come off, THEN you have to take the "key" out to remove the spindle shaft?

    Thanks in advance!!!!

    Also any tips on this process would greatly be appreciated!
     
  2. chesterlawn

    chesterlawn LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 703

    No you don't, the pulley will come off with the key in place.
     
  3. topsites

    topsites LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 21,654

    The question I have is, why the entire spindle, you do know it's a lot cheaper
    to replace what's worn (such as the bearings) than the whole spindle, likely
    save yourself a $50 per each, granted it will take a few hours longer but we're
    talking $150 in parts you can pay yourself by working on it the afternoon.

    One other question...
    Why all three?

    Usually I only do the one that's bad, now if all three are in right similar and rough shape, your call
    but the only time I replace the whole spindle (which I never have) would be if the housing had cracked.

    Peace out
     
  4. nsrwholesale

    nsrwholesale LawnSite Member
    Posts: 13

    The reason I replaced the whole spindles was because they all were making sounds and did not have a spot where you could pump the grease in. The new ones I got for $60 each have a place where you can pump grease in, which should make them last a lot longer.

    I replaced all 3 because they were for the most part all in pretty bad shape and while i had the mower deck off, I might as well have done them all!

    BUT, now that the spindle housings are new, if they go bad again, I will just replace the bearings!

    When the mower deck is turned on, it sounds and feels 1000% better. I would say job well done!
     
  5. dutch1

    dutch1 LawnSite Silver Member
    from Jayhawk
    Posts: 2,231

    Just because a spindle assembly doesn't have grease zerks doesn't mean they can't have them. While you have the bearings and shaft out, drill and tap for 1/4"x28 zerks. At the same time have a plan that will make them accessible once they are installed. I do this quite often, then install ZerKaps to stay away from corrosion and rust. It's a about a 20 minute job to do three cast aluminum spindles when they are out of the deck.
     
  6. BigFish

    BigFish LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,050

    NOT a good idea!! First, most of the spindle assy's use sealed bearings.
    The lube put in em by the brng. mfg. is far superior to most common shop grease! Second, ya gotta pry out the seals from the inside of the bearings to allow the grease to get to the brngs. Ya wanna do that to brand new SEALED bearings? Not to mention the ingress of grit etc. from not getting the spindle housing really clean. Then there's the issue of blowing out the bearing seals, as they're not designed to handle the pressure.
    It can be done, but .........................

    Kinda reminds me of when I serviced a Bad Boy mower's caster wheels, the wheel hub had zerks installed and SEALED bearings ! For kicks I popped a brng out and sure enough, SEALED!
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2011
  7. dutch1

    dutch1 LawnSite Silver Member
    from Jayhawk
    Posts: 2,231

    Yea, Fish, I should have mentioned pulling the inner seals. In doing so, I've never experienced any problems. The old Grasshopper cast iron spindle housings were equipped with bearings sealed on one side only. The mower I purchased in 1987 mowed 4 acres of dusty farmstead until 97. I started to get a little noise out of one assembly in 2005 so replaced them all. Wouldn't have happened without grease.

    When I worked in a Dane shop, we experienced sealed bearing failure in as few as 300 hours. We started drilling and tapping all new equipment with zerks and the problem went away--and, yes, we did peel the inner seals.

    I've said it before on this forum but to me the biggest contributor to bearing failure is power washing units while still hot after finishing up a day or a week of mowing--same for trailering a mower through rain after a job.

    Fish, what information do you have that would indicate that the grease used by sealed bearing manufacturers is superior to a good grade of high moly grease?
     
  8. piston slapper

    piston slapper LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,240

    Dutch...There must be some "Good Stuff" in the factory sealed bearings. How else could they give a 2-3 yr warranty on spindles with no grease fittings?

    EASY FISH....Just trying to help...
     
  9. dutch1

    dutch1 LawnSite Silver Member
    from Jayhawk
    Posts: 2,231

    Slapper,

    In the nearly 7 years I spent in the shop, I don't recall replacing a bearing under warranty. Upon teardown, most all revealed moisture/water invasion creating rust and grease breakdown.

    It's a lot like the Briggs 6.5 hp equipped Toro's that were guaranteed to start for 3 years. We didn't warranty any of those either if they showed up with water, rust or debris in the carb.

    I think the "Good Stuff" is referred to as Chinese Shinola.
     
  10. cgaengineer

    cgaengineer LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 15,782

    Toro spindle bearings are made of wood. Sealed or not they won't last.
    Posted via Mobile Device
     

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