Spraying future landscape beds with round up, how long to plant

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by LoweJ82, May 2, 2012.

  1. Glenn Lawn Care

    Glenn Lawn Care LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,647

    I am certified, I just didn't have a label to read at the time!
     
  2. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,785

    The label usually says to wait until the second mowing on new grass. But I have done tests where new grass 2 inches tall showed no ill effects after spraying with Eliminate. T-Zone and Quicksilver had slight injury.
     
  3. cgaengineer

    cgaengineer LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 15,782

    The label can be found online faster than you could type a question and wait for a response.
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  4. Duekster

    Duekster LawnSite Fanatic
    from DFW, TX
    Posts: 7,961

    3 way will have an effect but not something people use on bed prep.


    Let's not confuse the OP with Glenn Lawn Care
     
  5. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 8,826

    1-2 months before planting. Reason why? So that perennial grasses and sedges can be allowed to regrow after the initial hit. I have had to deal with many landscapes that just got one treatment with RoundUp. Talk about weeds coming up everywhere. Take the time to kill things off thoroughly and you will not regret it.
     
  6. Ric

    Ric LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,946

    Don't forget to water the area after the first treatment to increase germination. Common Bermuda is next to impossible to kill out with one or even two treatments. Common Bermuda can survive very far North as a Weed in selective environments. Not that Common Bermuda is the only PITA to deal with. Sedges can be a PITA to control also. I find if I target Bermuda and sedge I get everything else.



    .
     
  7. Ric/greendoc, what can I add to my roundup to get a good one time kill on dollarweed in beds? I've done 3 oz/gal and I'm getting mediocre results...
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  8. ReddensLawnCare

    ReddensLawnCare LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,652

    Carefully applied I believe 3-way Will knock dollar weed out quite effectively
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  9. Ric

    Ric LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,946

    Something we have not discussed is Water Quality of the Carrier. Hard water generally requires more AI to achieve the same results as soft water. Glyphosate is especial bad about losing efficacy in Hard Water. The harder the water the quicker Glyphosate turns inert.

    Dollar Weed has NO PRE EMERGE that stops it. But it is one of the easier weeds to control POST EMERGE. Just about any Herbicide will knock it down. For bed spraying I suggest Roundup Quik Pro in SOFT WATER for a fast acting control. Roundup Extend will give even longer control but not on Dollar Weeds.

    For Hard Water try mixing Scythe with Glyphosate for that same quick knock down. Of course in both Hard and soft water pH is important also. 1/5 of a pound Ammonium Sulfate per gallon will both lower pH and cause Glyphosate to response quicker. 2 0z of phosphoric acid will lower 100 gallons of water by one pH point. Glyphosate responses is best at around a 4.5 pH.

    You can buy Reasonable EC Meters and pH Meters from Amazon fairly cheap. At $ 30.00 each it just be the best $ 60.00 you spend. BTW these cheaper Meters work as well as my more expensive Hana Meters. Most City water and well water in Florida is very hard averaging 450 PPM. I have a RO system for my home but it isn't big enough to use RO water for spraying. My well is Brimstone sulfur water that I must treat before adding any pesticides.


    .
     
  10. ReddensLawnCare

    ReddensLawnCare LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,652

    I enjoy reading your post
    Great piece of information that I never thought Of
    Posted via Mobile Device
     

Share This Page