Spraying my own lawns

Discussion in 'Fertilizer Application' started by newlymowedlawns, Nov 11, 2012.

  1. newlymowedlawns

    newlymowedlawns LawnSite Member
    from NC
    Posts: 248

    I would like to start spraying my own lawns that I mow not anymore. I have around 50 from 1/3 acre to 3 acres. I have been thinking about the idea for a while about buying a skid. I have a permagreen and spray broadleaf mostly and granular fert/ crabgrass app. I hear people talking about fert/pre em,lime, braodleaf control and iron all in one app and once you start spraying iron you will never go back. From reading it looks like roughly 100 gal = 100,00 sq ft. Got to start somewhere. This is opening up a whole new can for me so I also have to learn what to spray. Located in Zone 7. N.C. Get most of my granular from JD landscapes in Winston Salem. You experts be easy on me. :hammerhead:
     
  2. RAlmaroad

    RAlmaroad LawnSite Silver Member
    from SC
    Posts: 2,185

    First, get legal. Then know your grasses: Bermuda, centipede, fescue, St. Augustine. etc. what ever you've got to deal with. Then learn your available water, what disease attack and what will treat them and WHY they will be effective. Learn the weeds for your area and what herbicides will work on a particular grass type. Most herbicides are formulated for either Southern grasses or Northern Grasses. Know the signs of overuse, fungus, or drought/over watering as they would appear. There is a mountain of homework to do IF you are going to do this. KNOW THE COST OF EVERYTHING on a most severe case. If you have 50 lawns, you could spend upwards of 30-40K a year on JUST Fungicides. Know your overhead as well as material cost.
    I'd suggest that you take a business class before starting and sinking thousands of bucks into a business and fail after a few years. Know how to deal with client objections and have your reasons ready. It's best to handle an objection BEFORE they arise. Know your client base and their available cash to hire you. Know your contract.
    It's not just a game--it's a way of life.
     
  3. newlymowedlawns

    newlymowedlawns LawnSite Member
    from NC
    Posts: 248

  4. newlymowedlawns

    newlymowedlawns LawnSite Member
    from NC
    Posts: 248

    Should have made myself more clear. I al all the above. I have been in business since 1998 full time. l do have my pesticide license and an associate degree in horticulture. I currently just spray broadleaf out of a permagreen and do granular fert. I was wanting to start doing more liquid apps on my current customers. Just trying to find out what to spray in each app to keep em looking good. I will jave to buy a skid sprayer to start with. Lol. Fescue lawns. I currently spray only momentum or 3 way out of my pg.
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  5. agrostis

    agrostis LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,269

    I gotta say that granular fertilizer application's are more economical and more precise. If i had to choose between the two different way's to apply, what you do now is the way i would go.
     
  6. GreenerSolution

    GreenerSolution LawnSite Member
    from PA
    Posts: 67

    i like both. i mix granular on some rounds, and liquid on others.
     
  7. newlymowedlawns

    newlymowedlawns LawnSite Member
    from NC
    Posts: 248

    I am going to buy a 100 gal skid sprayer this winter probably from Lesco to start out with so I can be ready for the spring. Do not want any new clients just take care of what I got. From what I have read it looks like I can maybe get 100,000 sq ft sprayed. Can anyone share what they spray for the first round in Febuary for Zone 7. This is going to be all new to me. Can I spray iron and lime also in the mix. Also if anyone has a thread with this info saved post the link please. Appreciate the help!
     
  8. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 9,062

    You can spray 100,000 sq ft from 100 gallons. However, it probably requires very accurate equipment like a pressure regulated boom instead of a single nozzle hand gun. I can tell you that iron and lime, usually do not mix. Both chemically and biologically. If you need to put down lime, that is normally due to acidic, low calcium soils. Iron is normally not a problem in acidic soils. If it is, you would do well to apply lime before or in turf dormancy and apply iron several times during the growing season. The do it all, be it all mixes are fraught with potential problems.
     

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