Spring Dead Spot Apps in bermuda

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by ArTurf, Sep 2, 2014.

  1. ArTurf

    ArTurf LawnSite Gold Member
    Male, from Ark
    Posts: 3,413

    If you were applying for this what schedule would you recommend? Label says 1-2 apps before dormancy then 1 app after dormancy. My 1st frosts are usually early to mid November. How would you time this? What would be your weapon of choice? This is on Tif 328.
     
  2. georgialawn88

    georgialawn88 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,075

    Theres several products that help but one of my customers told me I need to spray milk to fix it. Yes milk. not sure about 2% or skim.
     
  3. ETM

    ETM LawnSite Senior Member
    from Georgia
    Posts: 514

    We watch the soil temp. When it hits 70 the SDS become active again so we aim for 75 degrees with our first treatment. Here is something to read up on http://turf.uark.edu/publications/factsheets/Bermudagrass%20Spring%20Dead%20Spot%20FSA-7551.pdf
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2014
  4. Skipster

    Skipster LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,074

    Interesting service offering. A few questions:

    1) Do you offer this as part of your normal service or is it an upsell?

    2) Do you spray the entire lawn, or only some parts?

    3) What product do you use?
     
  5. ArTurf

    ArTurf LawnSite Gold Member
    Male, from Ark
    Posts: 3,413

    This is on a golf course. They are planning on using myclobutinol
     
  6. Skipster

    Skipster LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,074

    Are you consulting for this golf course? Have they ever sprayed to treat spring dead spot (SDS) before? What areas are they treating (tees, greens, fairways, clubhouse lawns, wall-to-wall)?

    SDS is a very unpredictable disease and a very difficult one to control. Not many fungicides are effective in controlling it. Rubigan (fenarimol) gave the best control by far (still only about 70% control in the best years at the best timing with the best growing conditions), but it isn’t being sold anymore. Other fungicides in the DMI class can be used, but they aren’t as effective. Eagle (myclobutanil) will have only a little efficacy. More effective choices would be Torque (tebuconazole), Headway (propiconazole + azoxystrobin), or even a simple propiconazole product, like Banner MAXX.

    Regardless of what you use, you’re going to need two applications, split about 4 weeks apart, made with a high carrier volume, and watered in afterward. After all this, you can expect at most 50-70% control in a bad SDS year. In a not-so-bad year, you won’t see much of a difference between areas you sprayed and areas you didn’t spray.

    I think it’s extremely important, too, not to overlook the cultural side of this. No matter what you apply (even in the days of Rubigan), if you have a thin turf stand, even mildly excessive thatch, a stand that hasn’t been aerated, soil that doesn’t drain well (or a rainy winter), shaded areas, or soil pH>5.5, you’re still going to get SDS. In my opinion, all the cultural practices need to be done before fungicides can even be thought of.

    I hope that helped a little bit?
     
  7. ArTurf

    ArTurf LawnSite Gold Member
    Male, from Ark
    Posts: 3,413

    This is on greens only. They have someone else consulting on apps, I'll just throw in 2 cents here and there. Cultural practices important yes but I have no control over that. Looks like 1st app needs to be done when soil temps approach 70.
     

Share This Page