System Start-up Questions to the Experts!

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by Summett, Apr 19, 2005.

  1. Summett

    Summett LawnSite Member
    Posts: 72

    I am hoping to start my irrigation system up myself this year, and save a little money. I just had it installed by a a company last fall and ran it only a few times before they came and winterized it.

    My questions are the steps i need to take to turn it on. I noticed that they pulled the drain/blow-out plug, so i'll need to reinstall that. I also noticed the backflow valves are shut, and so are the valves in the two control boxes i have. Is this the order that i go about turning the system back on?

    1.) Install the drain plug
    2.) turn on the backflow valves
    3.) turn on the valves in the control box
    4.) turn on the water supply
    5.) turn on each zone and adjust the spray if needed (i'm familiar with this)

    I have a submersed well and it's clean and all, so i am ready to go there.

    Any additional things, or are my steps wrong? Any of your expert advice is appreciated. Thank you!
     
  2. bicmudpuppy

    bicmudpuppy LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,781

    My first thought screams DON'T. If it were my instal, and you turn it on, (or any other company but me) your warranty is VOID. No if's and's or but's. You let anyone else touch the winterization process or do any repair on that system, then I am no longer responsible.
    Next, you shouldn't have to turn on anything but the main tap (which sounds like your pump, but not real clear here) and the backflow. The electrical portion of your control should monitor the rest. If you do have isolation valves before each electric valve, then yes they need to be on.
    Last thought, if these valves are actually "off", I wonder about your winterization. The only valve that should be positively "off" in the frost zone is your Tap, and it should be installed so that it will not freeze. Every other valve should be left partially open (especially ball valves) so that no water is traped in the valve bodies to freeze and crack. Ball valves split very easy when not thouroughly blown out before closing. This would be another good reason for my first point. Be there when they energize and make sure your valves do not leak in a partially open state. ( All the way open or closed - no leak, partially open, the outside body will leak if cracked.
     

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