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take all root rot

Discussion in 'Florida Lawn Care Forum' started by bug-guy, Apr 15, 2011.

  1. bug-guy

    bug-guy LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 972

    anyone coming across this yet. it seems the extension office is claiming all damage is from this fungus.

  2. Ric

    Ric LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,956

    bug guy

    I had one case many years ago and used Cleary 3336 to cure it. I love to say the name of the microbal that cause Take All, Gaeumannomyces graminis graminis or Ggg.
  3. coiclawn

    coiclawn LawnSite Member
    from Orlando
    Posts: 60

    I had about 12 lawns with it last year, never had more than 1 0r 2 in years past and so far this year I've already got about a dozen or so. The best treatment I've found so far is Eagle fungicide.
  4. White Gardens

    White Gardens LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,776

    Ran across a rare fungal/root rot problem up here a few years back and a couple of applications of Consan worked for my situation.
  5. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 9,064

    Eagle is a very good product for this. Be careful of it at higher temperatures. It is still a DMI fungicide with reduced, but still present growth inhibition properties. Insignia or Heritage are also good products that are not DMI.
  6. Turf Dawg

    Turf Dawg LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,719

    For us here in Texas we have been hit with this the last couple years, but before that it happened very seldom. It is suppost to be from our soil PH rising. They are telling us to spread Peat Moss at a 3 or 4 cubic feet per K. Beleive it or not it works pretty darn good. The only thing the peat is for is the acid in it. Apperently the take all fungus cannot survive in Ph below 6.7 so the peat on the Stolons watered in will lower the Ph in the fungus zone and kill it.
  7. quiet

    quiet LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 720

    It's most important to incoporate BMP dealing with TARR.

    Fungicides have limited effect when the outbreak is fully established. That being said, Cleary's 3336 and Eagle produce results when the outbreak is just beginning.

    Peat Moss is effective because it lowers the soil pH. But also use acidifying fertilizers - ammonium sulfate instead of urea - and be sure to get plenty of potassium down. And fertilizers that contain manganese are very beneficial, as TARR inhibits manganese uptake.

    But most importantly, manage your irrigation cycling properly.
  8. Keith

    Keith LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,977

    By chance, were these Palmetto St. Augustine?
  9. ArTurf

    ArTurf LawnSite Gold Member
    Male, from Ark
    Posts: 3,460

    I have one lawn with this condition. Once I learned what it was and how to treat it I have kept it under control. I use the guidelines from this http://www.uaex.edu/Other_Areas/publications/PDF/FSA-7560.pdf
    I have used Cleary & Eagle as preventatives plus the cultural practices. I haven't actually used any fertilizer on this lawn in the past couple of years and it is one of the best lawns I have. From what I understand you cannot eliminate the disease only try and control it to some degree.
  10. White Gardens

    White Gardens LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,776

    So what are the symptoms that you guys are seeing? Is it just brown dead patches in the lawn that look similar to chemical burn?

    Is it also effecting plants in the landscapes?

    Just curious as to what you Southern guys are seeing and if it's similar to what I dealt with a few years back.

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