Tiger Cub Hydro change

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by grass_cuttin_fool, Apr 1, 2005.

  1. grass_cuttin_fool

    grass_cuttin_fool LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,504

    I changed the hydro fluid last week in my Tiger Cub. The dealer said I could do it every 500 hours but I think it should be done anually or 500 hours. My Cub has 370 hours.
    I removed the filter and let the system drain for about an hour, then replaced the filter( filled the filter before I installed it) and filled the resavoir with Valvoline 20w-50 synthetic motor oil. I had a floor jack under the rear of the mower and I jacked it up so the tires would clear the floor. I cranked the mower and moved the levers forward slowly and backward slowly to work any trapped air out of the system.
    My dealer recommended to jack up the mower and work the air out in this manner instead of driving around in the shop or yard. He said this way there is no weight or friction of the machine on the wheel motors and there is going to be a few seconds that there is no oil in the motors while the trapped air works its way out of the system. I done as he said and the change was very simple and trouble free.
    I never did take my temp gun last year and see what the hydro temps were. I have noticed this week that the tank still gets hot but it seems to me the hydro system is a lot quieter than last year and maybe the controls are a little smoother, it may all just be in my head and no difference at all :dizzy: . I hope the synthetic will help to lengthen the life of the mower. This is my 1st try at any synthectic product
    Maybe this will help some of yall in changing your hydro fluids, I think the way the dealer explained it to me does make sense
    wayne
     
  2. Steppenwolf

    Steppenwolf LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 403

    Scag and the maker of the pumps on the hydro recomend that you DO NOT change the oil on you hydro drive but only the filter. You do not need to use synthethic oil in a Scag hydro. They run cooler than an Exmark or a Ferris so it is not necessary.But it is up to you.
     
  3. MMLawn

    MMLawn LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,569

    Think that might have anything to do with the Hydro COOLER Scag uses.. :dizzy:
     
  4. Steppenwolf

    Steppenwolf LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 403

    I don't know that much about the techinal end of a hydro unit but if the maker recommends using a synethic oil it must mean that it runs a lot hotter than other units that use regular motor oil.Maybe 15 to 20 degrees hotter I am guessing but if you must use synthetic oil it is not being air cooled properly.
     
  5. grass_cuttin_fool

    grass_cuttin_fool LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,504

    I havent checked the manual, I went by what the dealer told me.And the synthetic was an option, he said regular motor oil was fine but the synthetic would help it.The wheel motors and the pumps are 2 of the 3 biggest parts far as importance and price of the entire machine.I changed the oil to get any contamanation out of the system, most likely condesation and any other moisture, if you had any metal or dirt in the hydro system more than likely the pumps are bad before you would reconise it. I am not a fan of synthetics but decided to give it a try . The scag has a large tank that has alot more capacity then alot of manufactures and that is why they can use regular motor oil in the hydro units.
     
  6. bill w

    bill w LawnSite Member
    from Va.
    Posts: 198

    I don't know about the maker of the pumps, but my manual (Scag) recommends 500 hour/annual change of fluid and filter...more often if the fluid is milky or rancid.
     
  7. Steppenwolf

    Steppenwolf LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 403

    Went to a mini Scag school a couple weeks ago and the Scag rep said NOT to change the hydro oil due to the possibilty of getting air in the system and the maker of the pumps said not to change the oil.They did say to change the filter,fill it with oil before putting it on the machine and then check the tank. I have been changing the oil every year and it looks just as clean as when I put it in so I will take there word on it and not change the oil this winter.Scag also used to say use 10 w 30 now it is 20w50. I have never had a hydro pump go bad. My newest Scag has 3200 hrs plus...the four other units have 3600 to 4000 hrs( by hour meters, not guesstiments) so that says something for the reliability of hydros over belts.
    Always learn something when I go to a dealers open house show.Use your own judgement and what works for you. Remember replies on this board are only based on that indivudals situation and experience and you should be the only who decides what is best for you.
     
  8. bill w

    bill w LawnSite Member
    from Va.
    Posts: 198

    Where possible, I tend to use the part manufacturer's recommendation (engine, hydraulics, etc.).

    Steppenwolf,
    The number of hours you have on your units speaks well of your preventive maintenance program.
     
  9. Mr Dane

    Mr Dane LawnSite Member
    Posts: 27

    i currently service about 70 different units with hydros on them and with scags them recomend not to change the fluid i also have a old great dane suffer that has 7219 hrs on it by the hour meter and i have never changed the fluid and with a dane the hydros are right by your legs and they dont run very hot i would personally do what you feel comfortable with as for the money side of it the less you change the more the bottom line just thought i would give my 2 cents worth
     
  10. Steppenwolf

    Steppenwolf LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 403

    Actually Bill W I think it has more to do with the quality of the product than my maintaince. I don't think that any commercial grade unit will have any problems with their drive systems when they go to hydro.Exmark, Scag etc. all use top of the line pumps and you could most likely never do a thing to them and they woud last you a life time.
     

Share This Page