To duely or Not to Duely

Discussion in '<a href=http://www.plowsite.com target=_blank ?>Sn' started by PamelaRose, Mar 1, 2001.

  1. PamelaRose

    PamelaRose LawnSite Member
    Posts: 9

    I have a 1988 Chevy V-30, 10,000 lb GVW (K-30 with an old style cab) a 350 engine Standard 4 speed w/creeper gear, 4.11 rears, duel rear wheels, and a Fisher HD 9' Municipal punch plow. Plowing or not plowing the truch has always had a hard time getting through soft turf or snow deeper than 5". I started plowing with this truck in 94 when my old 68 K-20 died (the best plowing truck I have ever had). The problem is I am going through clutches like crazey. When the snow is deeper thn 5" I have to plow everywhere I want to go.
    Would it be better to just run single tires in the rear ?

    thanks for the help

    pamela

     
  2. MusGuy

    MusGuy LawnSite Member
    Posts: 41

    Pamela on the money, I have seen guys actually take off their outside tires for snow plowing, so that their is more weight on the rear tires, you are splitting the weight over two instead of four. It looks ugly, but it works, now i do not know if this would mess up any gearing because of the lighter resistance going to the rear tires, but... I have seen guys do this for that very reason.

     
  3. PamelaRose

    PamelaRose LawnSite Member
    Posts: 9

  4. 75

    75 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 992

    I use a 2wd dually for plowing myself and I find it actually works pretty good for me (mind you it's pretty heavy, up around 8,000 lbs +) with a good set of tires across the back. Running with single tires on the rear will help for traction (more "bite" as MusGuy points out) and won't affect the rear axle gears any. It might be just as easy to use one of the exisiting Budd rims off the back per side along with its clamp ring. If you do decide to run with the K-20 wheel, use the K-20 lug nuts as well. They take a 7/8" socket. The lug nuts for the dual wheels take a 1" socket and have a different taper (to fit the clamp ring) that won't match exactly with the taper on your K-20 wheel's bolt holes. Good luck! By the way, is the clutch problem a result of having to "feather" it a lot or is it something else entirely? My welding truck ('79 C-30 with the same trans as yours, mechanical clutch linkage) has had no clutch problems in the 2 years since we bought it, well used by a tire company. Then again, we also had an '88 with the same trans again (hydraulic clutch) and we had quite a few problems with it. Were there problems with GM clutches around that time anyone?
     
  5. 99SDPSD

    99SDPSD LawnSite Member
    Posts: 69

    Try a CenterForce racing style clutch. The higher the motor Rpm the tighter it grips.
     
  6. brimow

    brimow LawnSite Member
    Posts: 10

    I have an 83 gmc 3500 dump 2wd with a 8ft plow and have never ever thought about takeing on eset of the rear wheels off to plow. Now I do realize that it doesn't get the best traction in the world , but I have never had problems with the clutch on not being able to plow any amount of snow. Also I am careful about where I take the truck. Usually I have problems with steep inclines. And also I put a ton of sand in the back. Then again I do doctors offices and things like that. Here in Delaware there aren't too many steep hills so it doesn't do bad. Don't get me wrong, I would love for it to be 4wd.. but its not so I make do.
     
  7. 75

    75 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 992

    You bring up a good point there brimow, that of weight. And if it hasn't already been done, adding weight to the back of the truck would be a good place to start, and easier than busting the wheel nuts loose. In a post over in the Ford truck forum, wyldman mentioned a good idea of running a ballast bumper, basically a custom fabbed bumper that was good and heavy that replaces the regular bumper. One of my friends did a similar idea, making a weight that plugged into his receiver hitch. Another way to add a bunch of weight to a pickup is a piece of steel plate, it can lay in the back and not take up space. (1/2" plate 4' x 8' = approx 650 lbs, 3/4" plate 4' x 8' = almost 1,000 lbs)

    As I mentioned I also plow 2wd and it works fine - my truck is heavy because I built it that way. ( custom fabbed deck, winch, rigging etc) Tires are important as well. I have seen it done the other way too (running single set of wheels on the back for winter) and just wanted to point out the potential pitfall of the mismatch between the two styles of wheel nuts.

    I'm still wondering about the truck "eating" clutches though.
     
  8. plowking35

    plowking35 LawnSite Bronze Member
    from S.E. CT
    Posts: 1,687

    Ok, we have a few factors at work here, the biggest being operator error. If you cant get traction than why are you burning clutches? You must be riding the clutch, that is the only way to burn one up. With that low 1st gear there is no reason on Gods green earth to fry a clutch in any truck. The rear end also is geared way low enough to keep that from happening. Dual or single wheels you will have the same problem.
    Next is the fact that the dually p/u basically have a cab and chassis spring combo under them, and very little rear weight, the bed is quite light, add to that a 9' fisher plow further tranfering weight to the front, and that all equals no traction. Plowing 101 is counter weight on the rear. So go and put at least 1000-1500# is the bed of that truck and some agressive tires and plow your heart away.
    I have 3 of that style truck and they all plow great, worst case add a locker to the rear and really push some snow. But with the 4x4 I cant see why traction is such an issue.
    If that doesnt solve your problems, get an auto, sounds like you really need one anyway.
    Dino
     
  9. PamelaRose

    PamelaRose LawnSite Member
    Posts: 9

    No need to requote everything 75 posted Thanks Dino
    The truck does have a hydraulic clutch and I try not to slip it. As I said I never had any problems with the mechanical clutch in the '68 K-20. Perhaps that might be something to investigate.

    Thanks

    Pamela

    [Edited by plowking35 on 03-02-2001 at 02:38 AM]
     
  10. plowking35

    plowking35 LawnSite Bronze Member
    from S.E. CT
    Posts: 1,687

    GM did not have any problems with hydro clutches, in fact they still use them, in fact everyone does. GM started in 84 or 85 and its a good system.What it does do however is keep the pedal high, so if you are in the habit of reating your foot on the clutch pedal, it very well may in fact be slightly engaging the clutch causing slippage. Get to know your truck, and it will take care of you. So many problems are attributed to the truck or the maker of the truck, and in fact it is operator error.
    Dino
     

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