To FI or not to FI...?

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by Blackhatch, May 29, 2010.

  1. Blackhatch

    Blackhatch LawnSite Member
    Posts: 80

    I just picked up a Scag TT with a blown FD750 in it. It has basically all the parts, seals, cleaned up heads (guides, seals, and re-cut seats), and misc items except the crank was toasted.

    Cheapest route to go is to buy another crank and slap it back together with is probably the route I will go. The outer case was machined and a bushing put in its place where the thrust bearing on the crank chewed into it.

    Recommendations on places to buy the crank and an engine manual so I can put this back together with the right torque specs and etc.

    If the motor grenades after that, I am going to just buy a factory rebuilt one. The question I have is seeing as I will have all my parts (cooling system, muffler, etc) should I just swap it to an FI motor and put a pump on it and be done. I am sure I could wire up a relay to a standard FI pump with no problem.
  2. tryingtomakeit

    tryingtomakeit LawnSite Member
    Posts: 40

    All I can add, is that that is a very ROBUST engine, and that's how I got mine too. If you end up with a full rebuild, the only difference between a 27 and 29 hp is the pistons in part number.... Dish vs. flattop pistons....

    If your crank isn't too trashed, try using 400 grit wet on it, to remove the aluminum... These lock up usually at the cover from lack of oil, but my cover came from one that trashed the crank and rods................
    Last edited: May 29, 2010
  3. Blackhatch

    Blackhatch LawnSite Member
    Posts: 80

    I didn't even get the crank with the mower when I picked up all the guts and mower. Actual mower only has 1300 hours. I know these kawi engines are usually good for 2-3K hours.

    This will be the mower for my home so it will maybe get 3 hours a week about 25 weeks a year. After rebuild, it should last me a lifetime.

    Pistons are in great shape. No damage and nothing wrong with the cylinder walls either. No ridging on the top of the cylinder walls and the cross hatches are still quite evident.

    Any recommendations on where to get the crank and a manual?

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