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Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by ArTurf, Jul 27, 2013.
You must do more irrigation than I thought.
If a lawn comes to me with brown spots, dead patches and weeds. Chances are that I am not working with an irrigation system installed or operated to any accepted standard. I sell a lot of MP Rotator nozzles. Alternative is to bulldoze the lot and start over.
I like to see 40-45 PSI to reliably hit 20 feet. If you use a standard RB 1800 with PRS @ 30, you can hit ~18 feet more or less reliably depending on windage. With windage though it is a stretch to hit 20.
The new 1800-SAM-P45 would be a better choice IMO to hit 20' if there is any windage, otherwise I would stick with the Hunter PRS40 if you want to get max radius, or the standard RB 1800 with a PRS30 if you want max radius reduction, and of course all of the above with checks and 6" pop height.
Agree. Windage is an overlooked problem that builders need to address. I was at my site this morning with a slight breeze from the south and noticed how "hooked" the pattern was. Any time prs/prvs are being used, friction loss should be considered, though RB seems to have done well in their design.
I agree with you and will not take on a lawn for treatment with an unacceptable system. Of course there are those people who do not understand the relationship between a properly functioning system and a healthy weed free lawn. I've learned to pass on these in a heartbeat.
Yes to you and Kiril.
I'm not going to use pressure regulating heads in this case since the operating pressure will not be over 40. One of the reasons I tell people not to water in the evenings is wind. Are you saying valves with flow control rob a little pressure over non-flow?
No, the flow control on the valve needs to be adjusted for the amount of flow going through it. Common practice is to to fire the zone, turn flow control handle down until sprinklers begin to lose radius. Open flow control 1 1/2 turns and the valve is "seated". It has nothing to do with flow/psi, it's a matter of the valve operating correctly.
The same people that will not commit to getting their irrigation system up to par also have problems paying a fair price to address their lawn issues. Agreed. If I run into resistance I run. I am talking about people that fight me about converting beds to drip/microsprinkler and lawn areas to MP Rotators. Normally, their irrigation problems can be substantially helped with those changes. I am not talking about tearing out their whole yard.
Their also the ones that b!tch and moan about the bill and/or take forever to pay.
Which is why people are told when they first meet me that I am expensive, I expect things done a certain way, and if either of those things are not acceptable, it is time for them to find someone who will do things their way cheap. I am not Burger King.