Toro z master help

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by TazLandscapes, Jul 27, 2009.

  1. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,024

    I can relate to your frustrations Mike, Sometimes electrical problems can be a bear to sort out......


    You said you lost the click when you raised the seat, Un-plug the seat safety switch and put a short jumper wire across the connectors inside the plug. Make sure the parking brake is applied and both joysticks are out in neutral position.

    Now try to start it, Does it ? Did you re-gain the click ?

    You said you cleaned the ignition switch, Was there any rust/corrosion on the "B" post ?
     
  2. TazLandscapes

    TazLandscapes LawnSite Member
    Posts: 157

    Restrorob i ran a wire from the seat switch and the click came back. i narrowed it down to a relay under the dashso i am gonn aget a new relay tommorrow and see what happens.there was a little bit of corrosion on the b post but i cleaned it up with a wire brush.also how many quarts of oil does this type of oil does this take i plan on changing the oil if i get it started.and how do i go about changing the hydro fluid right now it has some type of red fluid in it like atf fluid and i want to change it before i use it.

    thanks
    mike
     
  3. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,024

    Here is a description of what each relay operates;


    [​IMG]


    Oil type/capacity;


    [​IMG]


    Good Luck
     
  4. TazLandscapes

    TazLandscapes LawnSite Member
    Posts: 157

    Restrorob i bought and put a new relay on the start relay and i when to turn the machine over all i got was the click still.but when i moved the handles into the neutral position i might have heard a loud click when i moved them. i am getting frustrated with this machine not running at all.Should i buy a new relay for the nuetral set or do i have to buy all of them.Thanks you or all your help also..

    mike
     
  5. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,024

    Mike,

    I wouldn't just replace all the relays, Is it the new relay that clicks when you turn the key to start ? If so does the old one you took out ?
     
  6. TazLandscapes

    TazLandscapes LawnSite Member
    Posts: 157

    yes it does thats why i replaced just the relay for the start. i am gonna replace the one for the neutral also.
     
  7. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,024

    Just swap the relays around with each other, In other words take each of the others and plug them one at a time into the socket for the start circuit and see if they click as well. If you run across one that doesn't click replace it with one that does, You have the new extra one now to do this.
     
  8. TazLandscapes

    TazLandscapes LawnSite Member
    Posts: 157

    I switched all of the relays around two times but i was still getting the click.I am gonna replace the ignition key switch but there is no part number on it. and my local repair shop.wont find me a switch without the numbers..is there a website that i can look for this switch.
     
  9. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,024

    Sure there is Mike, TORO.


    Toro's part # is 111216

    Aftermarket;

    Rotary part #1931 or #8601 depending on the size hole in your instrument panel.

    Sten's part #430-249 or #430-512 again depending on hole size.

    Take your old switch with you to match up the letters on the post since they are lost at finding you one..... :dizzy:
     
  10. VegetiveSteam

    VegetiveSteam LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 297

    You turn the key and absolutely nothing happens? No crank no nothing? To start with you can forget about the voltage regulator. That won't keep it from cranking. Not saying you didn't fry it but something else is causing it not to crank. Are you getting any power to the ignition switch? If so are you getting any power out of the ignition switch to the starter solenoid? Fried ignition modules could be a possibility but it still should crank. My guess is you fried the diode in the start circuit. If that's the case you should have power coming out of the start terminal of the ignition switch but will have no power at the starter solenoid.
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2009

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