Separate names with a comma.
Missed the live Ask the Expert event?
Not to worry. Check out the archived thread of the Q&A with Ken Hutcheson, President of U.S. Lawns, and the LawnSite community in the Franchising forum .
Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by JOEWOOD, Mar 17, 2006.
If many switch to Synthetic Motor Oil, why don't the Machine Manufacturers start you out on it?
Cost. It is much cheeper to buy bulk dino oil and load it in as they have been doing for years. The hydro mfgrs know the advantage of synthetic and are using it in units such as Toro, Walker and I believe Exmark and Dixie. The benefits of synthetic are proven especially in the heat resistance category. I run it in ALL of my motors.
Unless the manufacturer specifaclly states that the motor calls for synthetic.
The ONLY benefit I can see is if you don't wan to change your oil every 3,000 miles or 50 Hrs on mowers. Doesn't matter to me, every 25 hours in mowers I drop the oil, and every 2500mi in my trucks I drop the oil and filter.
Wow! Why so often? With modern oils and unleaded fuel, you really don't need to change that frequently. I change at 5000 mile intervals (Valvoline Durablend) and have 342,000 miles on one vehicle. I have one vehicle that only gets driven 1000 miles per year. I change the oil every 6 months, but not the filter.
Im anal about stuff like that I'll go 3500mi at the most, I like to keep my oil clean, and I go by color when it gets to a darker brown I change it.
Synthetic Oil has no properties that make it less sensitive to dirt than any other oil. You are correct in changing your oil frequently. The only system for extended oil change intervals is the Amsoil system that deals with multiple filters. Oil, synthetic or not should be changed per manufacturers recommendations. Dirt and heat are the #1 killers of small engines.
Don't run synthetic till your engine is broke in or the rings won't seat right.
Color is NO indicator of the condition of the oil!
Wrong, with Amsoil you can go twice the recommended change interval. With their series 3000 oil a lot longer. WHAT ABOUT ENGINES THAT "REQUIRE" A STRAIGHT WEIGHT OIL?
While we are on the subject of oil shearing I though it appropriate to discuss this topic. I get many calls asking why manufacturers of small engines such as used in lawn mowers, generators and even some larger diesel engines "require" either a SAE 30 or SAE 40 oil. The reason is that first and foremost, they are referring to petroleum motor oil. These types of engines operate under extreme RPM, load and heat and in the case of small engines are mainly air-cooled. Multi-viscosity petroleum oils are full of viscosity improvers (VI's). It is these viscosity improvers that are the weak link. As these agents are subjected to heat, load and high RPM the oil cannot reach its intended high temperature viscosity, which results in shearing. As this shearing continues the results can be loss of oil film strength, increased wear rates and temperatures and oil consumption issues. That is the reason straight weight petroleum oils are recommended for these types of applications. When a quality multi-viscosity synthetic oil, such as a 10W-30, 10W-40 or 15W-40 is used these concerns are non-existent. Synthetic oil is extremely shear resistant. The bottom line is that the manufacturers specifications are based on petroleum oils, yet your owner's manual is not going to explain that, so you in turn go out looking for the "required" straight weight petroleum oil. You would be much better off using synthetic oil in these types of applications
Let me know if I can be of assistance.