tree and shrub program

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by ant, Sep 17, 2002.

  1. ant

    ant LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,431

    i picked this up from another forum::::::::


    I was wondering how you best set up to do shrub and tree care,from start, pricing and product. Have been doing lawn treatments for the last 6 years and want to build on this side of buisness.

    for me it would be mainly shrub apps
    anthony
     
  2. tremor

    tremor LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,476

    Ant,

    I think I promised this to you once before & didn't follow up on it.

    If you send me a private email, I'll forward you some programs that I have in EXCEL.

    We're in USGA zone 6b bordering on 7, so we should be similar to your area.

    sls247@lesco.com

    Steve
     
  3. jdwilliams1

    jdwilliams1 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 97

    I would like to revisit this topic, any programs for tree and shrub care.
    start in spring go to winter
    How many deep roots
    How many insect control spray on apps
     
  4. kickin sum grass

    kickin sum grass LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 628

    I have a six step.
    1. dormant oil
    2. cover spray fert lightly
    3,4,5. insect / mite control as needed
    6. deep root feed trees and large shrubs.
    Disease control is extra only if needed.

    I would like to ask a question on the disease control to experienced t&s applicators. I notice a lot of companies include disease control on each round. Do you really mix it up and spray fungicides each time? I have a lot of customers asking why I don't include it. I would say you would have to build a resistance to the fungicide spraying it each time. Any thoughts?
     
  5. Green Dreams

    Green Dreams LawnSite Senior Member
    from Texas
    Posts: 593

    I rotate my fungis and you should too. I go from Bayleton to Banner to Eagle. I don't like eagle as I cannot mix less than 50 gals and the bags never desolve all the way. I end up cleaning them out of my screen. I'd like to rotate even more. Heritage is an expensive option.

    Here's my thinking on my program..

    1) Hort Oil & Fungi (Banner)
    2) Gran fert and spot treat probs w/ I & D (Talstar & Banner)
    3) I & D (Tempo & Bayleton)
    4) I & D (Orthene & Bayleton)
    5) I & D (Orthene & Eagle)
    6) I & D (Tempo & Eagle)
    7) Gran Fert and spot treat w/ I & D (Talstar & Banner)

    I'd like to vary even more than that if I could. These are done 6 weeks apart. What kind of results could I expect if I sprayed Merit in my mix for Round 4? I mean as far as a residual for systemic control of aphids and scale? I have tried it before but interested to hear what results others have had with it.

    Thanks
     
  6. TSM

    TSM LawnSite Senior Member
    from MA
    Posts: 711

    Our program is some what simular to yours. Disease control is not a 'standard' treatment, we apply as needed, where needed at an extra cost.

    Green Dreams brings up a good point...rotating your fungicides, as well as your insecticides is a good practice. His climate may be more demanding for fungicides, i dont know, but here we dont see all that much in disease activity (at least not that much to warrant a monthly fungicide)

    But on the other hand, our program is really quite generic. A small percentage of customers include a tree/shrub program for their landscape. Lawncare is the meat of our business. (which I have always found odd, to have to replace a section of lawn is rather inexpensive, grass seed is cheap enough. But to replace an ornamental, especially some thing that has sentimental ties to it can get rather expensive)
     
  7. kickin sum grass

    kickin sum grass LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 628

    Interesting - could it be that the southern climates need more disease control than northern?
    Keep posting from both climates and lets find out.
     
  8. Green Dreams

    Green Dreams LawnSite Senior Member
    from Texas
    Posts: 593

    I am on the coast and it is very humid here. I'd think Fla would be as bad if not worse.
     

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