Turf Rust Fungi

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by unit28, Aug 25, 2012.

  1. unit28

    unit28 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,557

    Just tested the ph and nitrates 4 weeks ago, showed it to be very alkaline and high nitrates. Sandy Loam

    The cooler weather we had {slowing down KBG growth} made this one prevalant. Threw down gypsum to try and bring down the ph, It's been 20 days since ferted with syn 10-0-20 10%fe for growth regulation and color improvement. Aerated 1 week ago.

    Irrigation on at 3am off at 630-- 1.25" of irrigated precipitation per week, daily ET at .18 Total rainfall 1" for August so far.

    location of rust- right on the dripline of an ornamental birch East side of the tree where it is shaded afternoon. Color of lawn is very good, HOC 4"

    I did trim the tree there 4 weeks ago and raised the canopy that was touching the lawn.

    Over seeded, bumped the irrigation in this zone from 20 to 35 mns thinking of adding qr fert for a booster...thoughts?

    fischer fungus 8-25-12.JPG
     
  2. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,781

    Newly seeded perennial ryegrass is very susceptible to rust fungus in the fall. With a little luck rust will disappear about the date of your first frost (if it has not happened yet) (LOL!) Extra fert will help--particularly nitrogen.

    Rust is not usually big problem, but some of the premium perennial rye types are more resistant to rust.
     
  3. Think Green

    Think Green LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,746

    Threw down gypsum to try and bring down the ph???

    Why did you use gypsum to change the ph...........it weakens saline and soften soil conditions without altering the pH.

    No other comments..........!
     
  4. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,081

    KBG growth is enhanced with cooler temps after a long hot summer like this one, not the other way around... along with fescue and per. rye...

    Now that it is cooler you should be able to shorten the length of the cut and it is excessive water sitting on the leaves, is one thing, that causes rust... it doesn't appear that low fertility is an issue here, so you might think about allowing the surface to dry off...
     
  5. unit28

    unit28 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,557

    Mabey the applied terminology is laxed
    tested soil sample showed an indication of locked {excessivly available}nutrients. PH was 8.5 thus....
    After aerating the lawn that was irrigated at 1.25" per week, and having dry plugs totally crumbled to dust around the V/Ball court, sloped areas, directly around walkways , driveways, and parkways


    added gypsum to start converting some hard packed alkaline soil into something more beneficial long term. It's only a single application in my simple holistic scheme.
     
  6. unit28

    unit28 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,557

    Did change the start time to 6am. Other than that I'll need something to outpace the fungus, and promote growth. I don't wanna, but I'll be bagging clippings here as well. about 12.5K's worth.
     
  7. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,781

    Rust doesn't need much water to spread...a heavy dew at night will result in spread of rust. It is a fall disease; it must spread up north from Mexico every year; killed by frost. Slow growth such as seen under cool dry conditions favors rust.
    Rapid growth, such as seen under warm moist conditions with high nitrogen levels often results in outgrowing the rust. Some types of bluegrass and some types of rye are more resistant to rust. You get a lot of red dusty spores. The orange-red dust gets on your shoes and equipment. Rust is not a major problem--not compared to lack of rain. Plan to add extra fert just after frost--this timing helps the grass recover as the rust fades out.
    http://pickseed.com/usa/proTurf/turf/index.html
    Fiesta 4 has good resistance to rust disease. Do not use types than have no claims of rust resistance.
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2012
  8. unit28

    unit28 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,557

    yes, we are right in line with the southerlies from the South. Have been for the majority of this season...

    I'm wondering if the guttation has something to do with it.
    I'm sure it's part of natures simple holistic scheme as well....lol

    I've taken stems and rubbed them on a napkin, and cruised into the infected area with white tennis shoes....it's not showing any sign of spore dis-coloring.

    The grass isn't sticky in the afternoon when I've checked it, but that rust seems stuck on there really good and not even rubbing off between my fingers.

    I'll try to snap a pic of the area later.
    Thanks for the replies y'all.
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2012
  9. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,081

    Now you speak of guttation during the same period of time the weather is dry... your turf is not dry with irrigation so what the weather is like is irrelavent... then you speak of walking through with white tennis shoes and showing no signs of rust disease...

    We should slow down and think about this a bit... :)
     
  10. unit28

    unit28 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,557

    yes, the soil in areas of recreation, slopes and around cement were very dry.
    If our precipitation for the month is 1" and the daily et rate is .18...after 28 days how much does that equate too?
    -5 inches or something like that.
    If I'm watering at 1.25 inches per week, that's 5 inches as well.


    did I find guttation? Today at about 10AM
    Sprinklers have been off since Saturday.
    Maybe I'm overthinking the rust spot....sigh

    1.}pic of guttation?
    2.}rust?
    3.}and general appearance

    IMAG0054.jpg

    IMAG0055.jpg

    fischer fungi.JPG
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2012

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