Unique situation in S. Minnesota

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by Brieldo, Apr 19, 2012.

  1. Brieldo

    Brieldo LawnSite Member
    Posts: 192

    Guys,
    My parents have roughly 10 acres of yard (!) and I'm looking for some advice. In the past, we've gone with a granular mix of Dimension and Fert in the spring to get things going and keep the weeds at bay, followed up with appropriate post-emergents for broadleaves later in the growing season. This year, with the very mild winter and earlier growing season, I find myself in need of advice on the best approach for the most favorable outcome.

    Here are the bullet points on what's going on for your consideration.

    1. Quite a bit of turf was torn up in the process of installing some new equipment outside, and some associated landscaping. This was done in the late fall. The areas affected are now bare dirt.

    2. They are having irrigation installed in Mid-May for the entire lawn.

    3. Nothing has been put down yet as a pre-emergent/fert mix. In the past they've used the granular Dimension/Fert mix sourced from the local Co-Op.

    So, the question is: What is the best order to do things in that will allow for the best turf outcome?

    Possible Approaches:
    A. Put down the granular mix in the areas which won't be seeded (some of those areas butt up to existing turf), install irrigation, seed the heck out of those areas needing seeding.

    B. Skip the pre-emergent/fert mix, put the irrigation in, overseed EVERYTHING like crazy, hope the grass holds its own this year, and next year with the new grass coming in strong, go back to the pre-emergent/fert protocol...

    C. Other ideas?

    The goal is to eliminate the junk that grows early in the growing season (crabgrass, etc), and maximize desirable turf proliferation, while not preventing the seeding of the areas in need of seed.

    I realize this is somewhat of a unique situation as it's a HUGE piece of property (and a cheaper therapy source for my old man than a shrink would be :dancing:), but I'm looking for some insight from those of you who live and breathe this stuff!

    Thanks in advance.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2012
  2. all things green

    all things green LawnSite Member
    Posts: 23

    put down your pre-m as you usually would..let them do what they do to the yard....seed in september...much better results and no weed competition along with better seed germination....deal with the bare spots for a few months....most economical advice...
     
  3. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,777

    A is correct. Dimension on existing grass. Seed on the bare soil areas. If needed, seed again in late summer when the temp falls below 85 consistently.
     
  4. DA Quality Lawn & YS

    DA Quality Lawn & YS LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 8,844

    OP I live where you live essentially.......

    One thing to keep in mind, soil temps are cold and will remain so in the short term with nighttime temps getting down close to freezing over the next few nights. So, as far as putting down pre, you have some time to play with.
     
  5. KS_Grasscutter

    KS_Grasscutter LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,331

    Put barricade down on the whole thing, reseed at the beginning of September (or whenever summer ends, could be sooner that far north). You've only got a few months to wait.
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  6. MnLefty

    MnLefty LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 367

    Pre-m as usual on the good areas, seed the bad when irrigation is installed... if you're concerned about weed growth in the areas needing seed and are comfortable calibrating a sprayer correctly, spray those areas with Tenacity before seeding. It will not inhibit seedling growth and should control most everything needing control in our area, including crabgrass.

    Others have said to wait... while late summer/early fall is definitely the best time to seed, it can be done quite effectively without putting up with the bare spots all season.

    How much bare ground are we talking about? And irrigating the whole 10 acres... ouch, I wouldn't want that electric bill, assuming they're pumping from their own well on acreage like that.
     
  7. Brieldo

    Brieldo LawnSite Member
    Posts: 192


    Here's a quick picture of some of the area. [​IMG]


    The local agronomist gave me the option of doing a split application of liquid dimension at $33/acre and a granular fertilizer (19-19-15-6) vs going with the granular blend of dimension and fert (15-0-15). Going with the split is cheaper per acre ($103 vs. $120) and has a better/more robust fertilizer basis.
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2012
  8. Brieldo

    Brieldo LawnSite Member
    Posts: 192

    DA: Given that you're virtually in my parents back yard (they live outside Mankato), what's your take on the best time to apply the Pre-E? The agronomist said the cooler/cold nightly temps have been keeping the soil temps down and as such, the crabgrass is still a ways off from germinating. What's your take on the timing aspect of application?

    Same goes for the grass seed...too early to apply (mind you, irrigation isn't going in until Mid-May)? Or throw it in now?
     
  9. Brieldo

    Brieldo LawnSite Member
    Posts: 192

    To add questions to the pile...another question would be whether or not to use Barricade or Dimension. Seems like a very common question on Lawnsite.

    Barricade: Cheaper, longer residual, can make for trouble when reseeding in the fall
    Dimension: Post-Emergent performance, less seeding implications
     
  10. Brieldo

    Brieldo LawnSite Member
    Posts: 192

    Bump for the experts!
     

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