Upgrading A Valve

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by cahermit, Aug 11, 2007.

  1. cahermit

    cahermit LawnSite Member
    Posts: 66

    I have a manual valve I'm upgrading to an automatic, but I have a problem...
    The valve is fitted with metal fittings on both sides. I would love to unscrew it and screw on another, but it's just not that simple.
    Am I going to have to cut the metal pipes and fit on some pvc? What would be the best thing to do?
  2. Need pics.......
  3. Mike Leary

    Mike Leary LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 21,982

    Look around for a brand name & see if you can find out when the valve went
    it...when the "automated" revolution happened, lots of people made change
    over bonnets..not too many these days. I'm sorry did you say it's a brass
  4. Kiril

    Kiril LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 18,308

    If it is, my guess would be Champion (lots of those in CA) and I believe Irritrol still makes a conversion bonnet for those.
  5. PurpHaze

    PurpHaze LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,496

    As others have already noted a model or pictures would be great since there are many conversion kits on the market.
  6. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,799

    Well, at least you understand that you will tighten one end if you try to spin off the other :)

    In the case of galvanized pipe, you can cut it, and use a compression fitting on one end.
  7. cahermit

    cahermit LawnSite Member
    Posts: 66

    ya it's galvanized... I don't think there's a retro for it, it's pretty damned old... I'll see if I can get a pic...
  8. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 47,715

    If the valve is an anti-syphon type, you can get an 'operator' for it, even if it isn't a Champion brand valve. Bottom inlet and outlets would indicate it's an anti-syphon valve.
  9. Just make sure you use the compression fitting on the end NOT under constant pressure if at all possible ;)
  10. PurpHaze

    PurpHaze LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,496

    Definitely a plus if he can leave the supply side intact, install the new valve (if necessary) by spinning it on and then reconnecting the lateral side using whatever is required.

    If we have to cut or repair galvanized supply lines we switch to galvanized compression couplers for smaller diameter pipe and Dresser couplings on our larger pipe.

    So much of what he'll have to do will depend on exactly what he has in the ground at the present time. Often this does not mean the actual manual valve that needs replacement, rather... it might depend a whole lot more on how much room he has to re-pipe everything.

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