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Using a centrifugal pump to irrigate from pond

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by BrendonTW, Aug 22, 2011.

  1. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 46,441

    Jets will top out in the 20+ gpm range, and they do cost more than centrifugals. If you really want to amp up the flow rate, at useful pressures, you wind up with a submersible in the pond.
     
  2. BrendonTW

    BrendonTW LawnSite Senior Member
    Male, from Oklahoma City
    Posts: 545

    That was my initial plan, but a centrifugal seemed more convenient. But not if I can't get what I need from one. What about a centrifugal with a booster?
     
  3. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 46,441

    Sure, but you are burning money for no useful result, so why bother asking for professional advice? You would be just as relevant by using a 1 hp centrifugal to pull 40 gpm, and running it through 3-inch pipe to feed all-brass popup sprays operating at 20 psi.

    If you had to get 50+ gpm from the pond at useful pressures with above-ground pumps, a centrifugal in series with a second centrifugal would work.
     
  4. regularguy

    regularguy LawnSite Member
    Posts: 152

  5. Sprinkus

    Sprinkus LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,047

    A multistage centrifugal pump like the one linked is something I would use, unless there was 3 phase power available and a budget for a 5 HP pump.
     
  6. Waterit

    Waterit LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,879

    Best bet is a submersible, a 3 or 5HP will give you plenty of volume and most importantly the pressure you'll need.
     
  7. Sprinkus

    Sprinkus LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,047

    There is a 25 hp submersible inside this 10" pipe. System runs at 200 gpm/100 psi.
    Easier to install something like this before the pond is filled.

    pump pipe.jpg

    phil pipe.jpg
     
  8. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 46,441

    nice boot shot ~ here's a performance curve from the old Sta-Rite D-series centrifugal, one of the few that can be set up with a 3-inch inlet. Using the 1HP model in its recommended operating range, leaves you sprinkling with Maxipaws or R-50 rotors. What we see are centrifugals operated at flows way below the recommended range, in order to have more pressure to feed common rotor heads, and that's a waste of money.

    1052.jpg
     
  9. Kiril

    Kiril LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 18,298

    Are you reading the same chart I am? Looks to me like the 2 - 2.5 HP models will suit the guy just fine based on his desired flow and pressure requirements.

    Given he hasn't provided even the first scrap of information needed to size a pump correctly other than how much water he wants to pump, I would say your statement is more than a little bold.
     
  10. txgrassguy

    txgrassguy LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,084

    You can irrigate at the volume/pressure desired with a centrifugal pump but it will take
    three phase power and probably at least 400 volts to accomplish.
    I have, in fact, designed and installed a centrifugal irrigation pump to irrigate an 18 hole golf course in Asia. Wasn't ideal but it did work - the idea being to use what was at hand verse import.
    However, in your situation, I would recommend a 2hp submersible, in a stand about two feet off of the pond bottom, with maximum pressure not to exceed 80 psi and volume limited to 30 gpm.
    Remember, to utilize a larger pump requires larger mainline and lateral pipe as well as larger valving which will add significantly to the installed cost. This is an instance where bigger isn't always better.
    Stay with a 1.5" mainline, all valving limited to 1" (yes I know 30 gpm flow is at the limit of these valves) and you can reduce to 1" lateral lines when flow rates decline to 18 gpm or so.
    Pumps are much cheaper in cost, much more readily available, wire size is smaller and electrical operating costs are less too. Not to mention outdoor mounted controller and pump start relay being an off the shelf and not "engineered".
    Install I-20's on swing joints with stainless steel risers unless live stock is present then I would use 4" schedule 40 pipe as a stand pipe with the lateral inside of the 4" pipe. Drill a hole in the 4" cap sufficient for the lateral to protrude about 6" or so then mount the I-20 on a male adapter. The 4" pipe should protrude at least 5' in order to prevent livestock from attempting to "drink" from the I-20.
    You can then eliminate essentially all hand trimming around the 4" pipe by using soil sterilent then add road-base around the pipe. Once every 4 months or so simply hop on the atv and spray glyosphate on any weeds that the sterilent hasn't controlled.
     

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