valve box placement

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by Ed G, Oct 8, 2006.

  1. Ed G

    Ed G LawnSite Member
    Posts: 140

    I cut all the pieces for my manifolds yesterday and dry fiitted everything together.

    My valve boxes seem to be pretty shallow. The solenoids on the valves (hunter pgv jar tops 1" male thd) are only about 1/2" below the valve box lid when lid is in place.

    I made the manifold a little wide so the box sits on 1 1/4" tees on one side and 1" coupling sleeves on the other side (and not on the cl200).

    Box is not tall enough to cut clearance slots for pipe. I want to bury the box, so I can run over it with my mower (snapper rear engine rider) with no worries about crushing pipe.

    How do I go about raising the box off the plumbing?

    My original contractor installed manifold had the box sitting directly on class 200 3/4" pipe. I don't think that's a real good idea.

    I'll try to post photos later on. The lakes are real smooth and a slalom course needs my immediate attention.
     
  2. PurpHaze

    PurpHaze LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,496

    Did you get "standard" boxes or "stubby" boxes? The standard irrigation valve box should have given you plenty of depth clearance on the top of the valves when notched out.

    You can also solve the problem by installing your valves a little deeper.
     
  3. This thread may be worthless without pictures.... ;)
     
  4. PurpHaze

    PurpHaze LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,496

    Yup... Then we could see exactly what he's dealing with. :)
     
  5. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 47,315

    One can always rest the box corners on some bricks.

    So it's pictures you want? And what's all the talk of boxes plural, when one valve box will do? :p
    [​IMG]
     
  6. PurpHaze

    PurpHaze LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,496

    Ed has a large back yard and the potential of having to loop his main line eventually to help against declining pressure in his neighborhood. He has two valve manifold locations so he won't have a jumble of lateral lines crossing each other or sharing the same trench line very much. It also gets the main line closer to the eastern side of his house for continuing back to the front of the property.

    Don't ask me how I know this or I'll have to kill you to keep the information secure. :laugh:
     
  7. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,799

    You and your raincad Hayes.

    Ed, Always notch your box out around the pipe, even if its not touching, because it will eventually settle.

    Sounds like your just using a half box riser, I use a full tall box.
     
  8. PurpHaze

    PurpHaze LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,496

    LOL............... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
     
  9. Ed G

    Ed G LawnSite Member
    Posts: 140

    I hate AOL dial up

    I tried posting the pictures, but it kept crashing.

    I have emailed two photos to PurpleHaze. Hopefully he can post them for me.

    1st photo shows the manifold assy (still dry fit together), second shows the 7" tall box (I'm told that is standard size for Florida) sitting on the manifold.

    Saw some past posts about this. I am now thinking I should raise each valve about four of five inches using 90 els. That would keep my pipe at a depth of 13" and the solenoids 1/2" under the box cover and give me four or five inches of dirt and rocks above the pvc.
     
  10. PurpHaze

    PurpHaze LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,496

    Ed's having problems uploading pics to the site so he sent me pics of his dry-fit manifold and the box they sold him. Seems to be a stubby to me and he says these are the standard boxes used in his area.

    Ed's Manifold Assembly IV-01.jpg

    Ed's Manifold Assembly IV-02.jpg
     

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