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valve box placement

7K views 23 replies 6 participants last post by  Precision 
#1 ·
I cut all the pieces for my manifolds yesterday and dry fiitted everything together.

My valve boxes seem to be pretty shallow. The solenoids on the valves (hunter pgv jar tops 1" male thd) are only about 1/2" below the valve box lid when lid is in place.

I made the manifold a little wide so the box sits on 1 1/4" tees on one side and 1" coupling sleeves on the other side (and not on the cl200).

Box is not tall enough to cut clearance slots for pipe. I want to bury the box, so I can run over it with my mower (snapper rear engine rider) with no worries about crushing pipe.

How do I go about raising the box off the plumbing?

My original contractor installed manifold had the box sitting directly on class 200 3/4" pipe. I don't think that's a real good idea.

I'll try to post photos later on. The lakes are real smooth and a slalom course needs my immediate attention.
 
#6 ·
Wet_Boots said:
And what's all the talk of boxes plural, when one valve box will do?
Ed has a large back yard and the potential of having to loop his main line eventually to help against declining pressure in his neighborhood. He has two valve manifold locations so he won't have a jumble of lateral lines crossing each other or sharing the same trench line very much. It also gets the main line closer to the eastern side of his house for continuing back to the front of the property.

Don't ask me how I know this or I'll have to kill you to keep the information secure. :laugh:
 
#9 ·
I hate AOL dial up

I tried posting the pictures, but it kept crashing.

I have emailed two photos to PurpleHaze. Hopefully he can post them for me.

1st photo shows the manifold assy (still dry fit together), second shows the 7" tall box (I'm told that is standard size for Florida) sitting on the manifold.

Saw some past posts about this. I am now thinking I should raise each valve about four of five inches using 90 els. That would keep my pipe at a depth of 13" and the solenoids 1/2" under the box cover and give me four or five inches of dirt and rocks above the pvc.
 
#14 ·
Wet_Boots said:
You can stack two extensions and get the depth of a standard foot-deep valve box (don't build eight-valve-manifolds without them!) ~ Even though shallow boxes have become far too common (punk kids can't dig a hole?) that doesn't mean you have to follow suit.
The extensions we get sit directly ontop of the box and don't nest like stacking two boxes does.

Which is irritating, because you have to tamp the ground very tight to keep the riser from pulling off the box when you remove the lid. Especially when some landscaper adds 6" of mulch to a bed, so you have to add a riser,and the mulch won't hold the riser on.
 
#18 ·
Dirty Water said:
The extensions we get sit directly ontop of the box and don't nest like stacking two boxes does.

Which is irritating, because you have to tamp the ground very tight to keep the riser from pulling off the box when you remove the lid. Especially when some landscaper adds 6" of mulch to a bed, so you have to add a riser,and the mulch won't hold the riser on.
Are you saying that you run into stubbies that need a stubby put on top to clear the mulch? I think if this were the case I'd remove the original stubby and just install a standard. T&M... :)
 
#20 ·
The idea of stacking the valve box extensions was for the OP, who might have trouble getting an exchange or refund. Then, one valve-box body might be purchased, to go with the leftover lid. Again, your mileage may vary. With Ametek boxes, you can buy bodies and covers separately, should you want.

I thought Florida soil was all sandy and all. Not much effort needed to dig a foot-deep hole.
 
#21 ·
Yep Florida soil is nothing but sand. The hardest thing about digging is breaking thru the sod roots.

I just looked at a couple of neighbor's valve boxes. They all have a stubby too.

Now you fellows understand why I'm turning to you to get a good irrigation sysytem and wanting to get it done right.

By the way, little about me...I'm a former contractor myself.

For 10 years I worked as an independent contractor providing drafting and engineering consultation services. I now work direct for ABB Medium Voltage Power Distribution Division as a mechanical designer in the research and development dept. I design the enclosures for Outdoor Circuit Breakers

You guys ever need any AutoCad tips, just ask.
 
#22 ·
my solution to my "dilema" turned out to be a no brainer.

My stubby box cost me $17.99.

If I built the manifold to raise the valves, the fittings would have cost me about $12.

I discovered that Home Depot sells 14 x 20 x 12 (or thereabouts) valve boxes with lid for $18.99.

I don't buy the fittings, I take my stubby box back for a credit and then I'm only out an extra $7 to protect the manifold and PVC correctly.

Hows that for voodoo math?

My pool screen was put up yesterday, so Irrigation install starts this weekend.

Trenching with an EZ Trencher takes place on Friday.

I'll make sure to take lots of photos so you guys can see what goes on in the wacky mind of the homeowner.

e
 
#24 ·
Ed G said:
Yep Florida soil is nothing but sand. The hardest thing about digging is breaking thru the sod roots.

I just looked at a couple of neighbor's valve boxes. They all have a stubby too.

Now you fellows understand why I'm turning to you to get a good irrigation sysytem and wanting to get it done right.

By the way, little about me...I'm a former contractor myself.

For 10 years I worked as an independent contractor providing drafting and engineering consultation services. I now work direct for ABB Medium Voltage Power Distribution Division as a mechanical designer in the research and development dept. I design the enclosures for Outdoor Circuit Breakers

You guys ever need any AutoCad tips, just ask.
He's right. Although I am sure there are tons of guys who do great irrigation work here. I have yet to meet any. Slack and halfway seems to the standard.

Yet another reason I am pursuing my irrigation license.
 
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