vertical blade adjustment?

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by B&A lawn care, Jul 24, 2008.

  1. B&A lawn care

    B&A lawn care LawnSite Member
    Posts: 70

    Our 61" scag has a stack of thick washers on each blade spindle. They are now all on top making the blades all the way up into the deck. I assume these are for adjusting the blades up and down for conditions? What does adjusting the blades up and down do? Dont have a book.
  2. mowermankevin

    mowermankevin LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 270

    Yes, all those washers set the blade height cut, instead of chains or pins to set cut adjustment Skag went with this set-up. Here,(Texas) right now, we don't remember what rain is, as the locals say,"It's so dry,I could spit cotton". Being an ex-Cheesehead, it was a real shock to move here, (1977) and in 1980 I thought I moved to the inferno of hell, 67 days above 100, so this year is a slight repeat, and you want your blades high cause first of all the grass has gone dormant, even irrigated lawns are not growing, so all you have to do is show up, mow,weed-eat and blow, do litter control and go. Last year was a different story, it was the mowing season from hell, rain,more rain, and more rain, mower blades lasted 2 weeks at best, riders lasted maybe 3 weeks. The reason for those spacers is to adjust for changing conditions,different grasses and make it easier on the machinery. If the only way to mow thick grass is to change the washer spacing or bog the engine, what are your options? Cut half a swath? Take the time to set the blades where yours are now? All I'm trying to say is they control the height the grass is left at after you pass over it,mow a dry patch,hit a green thick patch and listen to that blade speed slow down and that engine grown, you'll figure it out,these machines need TLC to keep going, and if yours are set high thats the easiest on the machine, but your customers might complain,"Hey, you weren't even here 15 minutes, and it doesn't even look like you cut anything"
  3. B&A lawn care

    B&A lawn care LawnSite Member
    Posts: 70

    Well, I knew that moving them would change the cutting height. I guessed that since setting the height is more easily accomplished with the spacers on the casters there had to be another reason for the blade spacers:hammerhead:
  4. greenscapestx

    greenscapestx LawnSite Member
    Posts: 43

    I'm curious about this too. My snapper wb has the same thing, about an inch of washers total. But I thought if I moved them to raise the blades, then the bolt heads would be an inch lower than the cutting surface. Wouldn't that create lines in the cut? I have been tempted to try different configurations with the washers, but I don't know that it will do any good.
  5. Phil G

    Phil G LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 843

    If you refitted the washers between the bolt head and blade then yes you could get marking on the lawn. Just keep the removed washers in your tool box for when next needed, fitting just the one washer between the bolt head and blade.:)
    Good luck Phil
  6. mowermankevin

    mowermankevin LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 270

    The washers go between the top of the blade and the spindle. When you undo the top nut and the blade bolt drops out, with the blade you change cutting height by sliding the washers on the bolt shaft on top of the blade and then sliding the bolt back up thru the spindle, Copy?
  7. kjslawn

    kjslawn LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 618

    I took 2 spacers out it gave me better suction and less scalping
  8. vgshopboss

    vgshopboss LawnSite Member
    Posts: 64

    If you check out and look under their online manuals for your specific mower you can find out how to set your blades to a specific height. You will need to look at the replacement decals pages to find the info. They only print that particular bit on a decal that is normally on the LH side of the deck. Thankfully, they also use a type of adhesive that ensures that the first time you wash the machine, that decal will come off. But you set exact blade height with a combination of the deck-to-frame mounting holes, caster wheel spacers, and blade spacing washers. But as someone else here said, whatever ones you aren't using, toss in the toolbox, don't mount them on the top of the shaft above the spindle housing. Also, if you ever find you need more spacers, you can get them from Stens for about half of what Scag wants for them. For your info, they each are 1/4 inch thick, and you can only fit 5 of them between the blade and the spindle housing. Scag recommends at least 3 spacers for proper suction and discharge.

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