Walker release Handle- photo retry

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by fixer67, May 1, 2004.

  1. fixer67

    fixer67 LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,100

    I have tried to upload some photos and have failed. I am going to try once again

    808.jpg
     
  2. fixer67

    fixer67 LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,100

  3. fixer67

    fixer67 LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,100

  4. NJemerald

    NJemerald LawnSite Member
    from NJ
    Posts: 121

    Nice solution there, fixer67!
    :waving: to squeezing / tearing my hand to try an release that lever.
    Thank for the Great Idea...

    Anymore? :D

    Bryan
     
  5. fixer67

    fixer67 LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,100

    Believe it or not I tried to GIVE the idea to Walker and they turned it down. I just checked my PhotoIsland account and 7 people have already downladed my photos of the release handle. As a matter of fact I do have some more ideas. You know that long tube/ dip stick that is on the gear box that drives the fan and driveshaft for the blades? If you need to remove that gear box you must remove that dip stick tube. I have a tool for that.
     
  6. NJemerald

    NJemerald LawnSite Member
    from NJ
    Posts: 121

    :laugh:, I'm replacing one right now...Actually more than that,,, whole chassis strip down...Replacing a 1997 25hp with a 2004 20hp (with the new style carb.) actually waiting for the engine to come directly from Kohler because noone has them in stock yet.

    I was thinking of a crows foot head to remove the fill/vent tube?
    What do you have up your sleeve???

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  7. fixer67

    fixer67 LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,100

    What you need is a 5/8 deep well socket. No one makes a foot long deep well socket so I did. I took a cheap $2 5/8 spark plug socket and cut it it two with my Port-a-Band just at the point the well ends. I then took a piece of water pipe and welded the well to one end and the 3/8 drive part to the other end so I can still us a racket or wrench with it. Now sockets are chamfered so that they will slid on a bolt easier and that is not good for this because the nut for the tube is so thin. I ground the end of the socket flat. I used a spark plug socket for this for several reasons. One it was cheap, two with a deep well I could reground the socket as needed many times before having replace it and I could use a wrench if needed. I even have a tool for those bolts that holds the seats on but that one takes a little machining to make. I will try to up load a photo of it.
     
  8. NJemerald

    NJemerald LawnSite Member
    from NJ
    Posts: 121

    Here's my version of fixer67's idea:

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  9. NJemerald

    NJemerald LawnSite Member
    from NJ
    Posts: 121

    Pull back & lift from either side with ease...

    r0300288.jpg
     
  10. NJemerald

    NJemerald LawnSite Member
    from NJ
    Posts: 121

    1/4" bar with E brake rubber cover installed, welded 1"x1" pivot tab w/ stainless steel hardware.

    r0300289.jpg
     

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