Wall Project

Discussion in 'Hardscaping' started by DVS Hardscaper, Mar 7, 2012.

  1. alexschultz1

    alexschultz1 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,552

    Amazing work my friend, truely professional quality. If you don't mind me asking because I've never had an opportunity to do a wall this size. Why are the drainage pipes coming outside of the wall instead of being run underneath and away from the wall. Every class I have taken has told me that pipes coming out towards the base will eventually erode away the ground and cause the wall to wash out. But as you know experience trumps text books
     
  2. GroundOneMN

    GroundOneMN LawnSite Member
    Posts: 81

    Looks to be that the grid is in upside down!
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  3. Gilmore.Landscaping

    Gilmore.Landscaping LawnSite Senior Member
    from Ontario
    Posts: 645

    I have never read anything about that in a book. I was told to do it exactly as DVS has done it. And the same way we do all of our projects. There is never a "flow" of water....its not like a downspout at the base of a wall. you will get more erosion in a heavy spring rain them you will ever find below one of those pipes.
     
  4. DVS Hardscaper

    DVS Hardscaper LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,403

    The white PVC are downspout pipes, connected to the dwelling's downspouts. There is no where else to run them due to the septic system and the location of a property line. The black flex tubing are the wall's drainage system. I doubt water will ever come out of them.

    It would be impractable to run pipes under the wall, as there are 2 rows of base courses of block burried below grade plus 6-inches of aggregate base, totaling to a depth of 22-inches.

    The engineer's specs say for the pipe to be 6-inches above grade.

    Also, take note, the PVC pipe extends 3-feet past the wall. When the job is finished we'll trim the pipe down. There is no way any water will undermine the base of the wall, as the pipe extends sufficiently past the footing, as well as utilizing a splash guard, or a small dry stream bed, etc.

    And with all that said, I decided today that one PVC pipe will most likely be abandoned! I'm now thinking of running it at an entirely different angle. Long story short - the reason for abandoning the pipe pertains to accessing the area with the loader during construction. This will allow us to get the machine in there from a whole different angle. I always say no to jobs are ever the same.
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2012
  5. DVS Hardscaper

    DVS Hardscaper LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,403

    haha thats funny! I actually paused for a moment and thought about it!


    .
     
  6. DVS Hardscaper

    DVS Hardscaper LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,403

    And something else!

    For 2 yrs now, I have listen to Paver Pete tell people to backfill their walls entirely with 3/4" (#57) aggregate. His mindet is that you dont have to compact, and he thinks the filter cloth will clog and be ineffective.

    Well, I'm guessing we excavated around 70 cubic yards of soil for the grid zone.

    If we utilized Paver Pete's personal method - I'd have TO PAY to load and haul the soil away and I'd have to pay for the additional aggregate! His personal method WOULD BE more costly!

    Not the most realistic thinking.
     
  7. GroundOneMN

    GroundOneMN LawnSite Member
    Posts: 81

    Made u look! Looks good so far.
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  8. 2low4NH

    2low4NH LawnSite Bronze Member
    from NH
    Posts: 1,892

    Thats not paver petes method that follows the NCMA guidelines
     
  9. DVS Hardscaper

    DVS Hardscaper LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,403


    Wrong. He's been harping that he "thinks" backfilling a wall entirely with #57 aggregate will cut costs down.
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  10. crazymike

    crazymike LawnSite Senior Member
    from Ontario
    Posts: 454

    It's just not practical unless you have a paver manufacturer backing the job.
     

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