WALLSTONE /PRICING

Discussion in 'Landscape Architecture and Design' started by bobbygedd, Feb 17, 2001.

  1. bobbygedd

    bobbygedd LawnSite Fanatic
    from NJ
    Posts: 10,178

    HEY ALL, IVE DONE A MINIMAL OF STONE WORK, AND WANT SOME OPINIONS ON USING WALLSTONE AND PRICING. FIRST OFF, DO U USE ANY SPECIAL MATERIAL FOR THE BASE(UNDER THE FIRST LAYER) SUCH AS CRUSHED GRAVEL, SAND ETC. ALSO NEED TO FIGURE ON PRICING. THIS JOB I HAVE COMING UP CALLS FOR ONE PALLET OF "QUARRYSTONE" THIS IS A FLATTER EASIER TO WORK WITH MATERIAL COST IS $125, THEN IM FIGURING ON ABOUT 2 YDS OF TOPSOIL FOR BACKFILL AT $20 PER YARD. TREES AND PLANTS IM OK WITH PRICING. CAN ANYONE HELP ME ON THIS? THANKS BOB
     
  2. paul

    paul Lawnsite Addict
    Posts: 1,625

    BOB first turn off the CAPS.
    This sounds like a small wall, but you still need a good base or it will shift on you. you should compact it and put a back pitch to it. This way it won't tip foward on you. next you should back fill the back of it with a washed gravel, then when you are with in say 8" of the top back fill with dirt. if the wall is going to have any kind of a load on it,you might also want to use a fabric behind the wall, place it between the gravel and the dirt.
     
  3. Stonehenge

    Stonehenge LawnSite Bronze Member
    from Midwest
    Posts: 1,277

    for the pricing of the wall, do a search on retaining walls and pricing in this forum. There are a couple threads that discuss pricing walls. The materials might be a little different, but the strategies are very similar.
     
  4. steveair

    steveair LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,073

    Hello,

    I always start my pricing for 'dry laid' walls at around $400 dollars a pallet installed. Typically, I average around 10 - 12 face feet of wall per pallet, so it averages out to around $40 a face foot. There's usually a lot of crap stone in pre-stacked pallets. It really depends on what look you are going for, as a lot of the stone can be unusuable for my standards.

    On top of that 'base fee', I also include any other additions. If drainage is a problem, then the amount of work going into drainage may up the price. Also, job site conditions, workability/access to the site, and other site conditions may change the price.

    Your topsoil price sounds way low. 20 a yard, that sounds like just cost of material. What about trucking, installation, etc? I would be in the 50-75 a yard installed range, plus if you have to plant grass/plant shrubs on top of wall, that should be considered.

    Finally, type of stone can vary the price. If it is a relativily 'thin' stone, price goes up, to where thicker stones (which go up faster) may warrant a lower price.

    A lot of factors involved here, some that you will only understand as you start to do more and more of these. I've always felt the 400 a pallet though is a decent 'base', though I HATE to do any kind of standardized pricing. Its a decent check system though. For such a small wall, I would imagine the price will be much higher.

    steveair
     
  5. bobbygedd

    bobbygedd LawnSite Fanatic
    from NJ
    Posts: 10,178

    the topsoil is $20 purchase price , i charge $65 per yd . ok, this is a good start, now what kind of fabric are we talking about? and the base material , should it be put about an in thick on the ground before the first layer of stone? and then used to back fill say 1/3 of the wall? this is the way i understand it. what kind of base material? alot of questions, sorry
     
  6. Lanelle

    Lanelle LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,361

    The fabric will be water-permeable. It can be a non-woven filter fabric or a woven geo-textile. The function is to keep the soil from migrating into the gravel fill behind the wall. The size of your base will depend somewhat on the height and thickness of your wall. The gravel backfill should be about a foot thick, front to back. Post your finished wall dimensions and the info may become more specific to your project.
     
  7. SCL

    SCL LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 543

    I approach dry stacks and boulders the same as I approach segmented concrete. For your area 1' of base is begging for a failure. Figure a minimum of 4' plus 1' of wall under grade for every ft. of retaining wall height. The more base the better. We use something called CA-6 whick has stone from 3/4' to fines compacted with a plate. The pricing of around $400 a pallet seems pretty good though. Do a search on retaining walls and you should come up with url's for unilock and anchor diamond. They will have some good install info.
    Scott
     
  8. Rodney Johns

    Rodney Johns LawnSite Member
    Posts: 121

    All sounds like good advice. Use a CLEAN rock for base and fill. I use 1/2" clean. Geographically it depends on what you can charge. I hear of $16-$32 per square foot depending on wall height, where you live, and type of block. I always get "well I can pour concrete for that" let them do it. Wall customers are looking for function and beauty.
     
  9. khouse

    khouse LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,465

    I use crusher run gravel for base. I cut out about 4 inches of sod/topsoil out first. Then I tamp the earth down until it's PRETTY solid. Then I fill with grave and tamp that. Then I put a loose layer of gravel on top of that. I try to keep my first coarse 1 inch below the grade. Not the whole block, just the bottom of the block. Then set the first coarse tamping each block down level with the next. You will need to cut some blocks on the corners to keep the blocks from lining up. I back fill the whole thing with gravel except where my plant will go. Hollow out and fill with black dirt there. Then I install a weed mat covered with a layer of river rock (cheap stuff) but cleans up nice when washed. I charge $12.00 a block for this with planting,steps,light ect all being on top of that. We use the Pavestone 12 x 4 x 8 inch stones. Our cost here is about $1.72 per stone. Put slight curves in your walls instead of trying to make them strait. This is less work for you because perfectly strait walls are a pain. Unless you can butt them up to something strait like a sidewalk.
    Best regards, Kenny
     

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