WANTED! Pull behind Tiller for Garden Tractor

Discussion in 'General Industry Discussions' started by kirk1701, Jul 21, 2007.

  1. kirk1701

    kirk1701 LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,981

    Hello Everyone, Kind of new to the forum but love lawn maintaince and working in the yard. Last year I reseeded half of my front yard which included breaking up the lawn, tilling it, raking it out to desired pitch for good drainage and so forth. I want to do the other half of my lawn this fall but also want to make the job easier with a tiller you pull behind the garden tractor rather then using my troy built walk behind tiller.

    Problem is, I'm not finding to many companies that make a tiller you can pull with a garden tractor unless you have one of the high end garden tractors with PTO attachments which I don't. I need a pull behind tiller with its own gas engine that will work with my John Deere LA 140 model garden tractor.

    Any advice appreceated.
     
  2. PBinWA

    PBinWA LawnSite Member
    Posts: 62

    I tried one of those when I first got my property. They are OK but you would be better off with a decent large frame TroyBilt walk behind or get a Baretto from a rental center. Or better yet, get someone with a Soil Conditioner/Pulverizer/turf renovator to do the dirt work for you.

    You can check out this tiller which can use your mower's PTO:

    http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com/tiller-rotary-tiller.htm

    Or get the Agrifab with it's own engine:

    http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_404565_404565

    I'd recommend renting a good one or buying a better walk behind though.
     
  3. kirk1701

    kirk1701 LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,981

    Thats what I have is a TroyBilt Super Bronco so you thing thats my best angle to continue doing the other half the way I did the first part last fall?

    No PTO hookup for my tractor and the other link for the Agri-Fab tiller, thats the only one I have found at Lowes here locally and it $1400. No place local has them to rent however I think I will look into the Soil Conditioner/Pulverizer/turf renovator angle

    Thanks, Joe
     
  4. PBinWA

    PBinWA LawnSite Member
    Posts: 62

    The tow-behinds aren's any better than your Super Bronco. You might want to see what the local rental yards have. Baretto tillers are pretty nice.

    However, there's nothing like the right equipment for the job. Bobcat makes an attachment called a soil conditioner and there are similar skidsteer attachments (Harley Rake, and a few others) that can prep old turf into a neer perfect seed bed in no time. But it might cost more than $1000 if you have a lot of land.
     
  5. kirk1701

    kirk1701 LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,981

    No, its not alot of land but it is a good size lot (probably 75' X 75') but its on a bank so that's what going to make it rough. I remember last year when I got down to the bank I could only go one way "uphill" otherwise the tiller wanted to run away going downhill and going across it wanted to creep downward and not a straight path.

    Now here's another question for you. The area I want to reseed already has grass in it, however its mostly weeds so if I roundup it, kill the grass and after the grass is dead rake it up so nothing is left but bare ground before I start tilling. Will the roundup prevent the grass seed from coming up?
     
  6. PBinWA

    PBinWA LawnSite Member
    Posts: 62

    If you are planning on tilling up hill with a lawn mower and a tow-behind tiller then definitly DO NOT do it. That is the exact reason I got rid of mine. It was either wheelie central or I was getting pushed down the hill half out of control. They probably work fine on nice flat lawns but don't bother with hills.

    Just mow the lawn short and then nuke it with round-up. There isn't too much you can do about seeds. If you plant the grass seed thick enough then it will prevent a lot of the weeds from popping up just by competition.

    I bet you could rent a skidsteer and a soil conditioner for a day for around $1000 (maybe less) and get the whole thing done yourself unless you think you would have troubles running the equipment. Or like I said, ask around and find someone to do the work for you. Experience with the equipment goes a long way towards getting the job done right.

    However, doing it yourself can be a lot more fun if you can afford to make some mistakes.
     
  7. kirk1701

    kirk1701 LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,981

    Thanks PBinWA
    I'll post back here if I have anymore questions. Plans are to start this friday July 27 and mow it short and round-up it. Give it two weeks to die then try to get the weeds off the top before I till it up.

    Next step would be to spread top soil which has already been delivered in some of the low places and landscape it for drainage then till it up and mix in some peat moss with the soil and be ready to seed middle of sept which is what I've been told was the perfect time of the year here in Kentucky to plant grass.

    Thanks again for all the help, I'll post pic's when I'm done. :)
     
  8. kirk1701

    kirk1701 LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,981

    Here's a couple pic's of the last leg of the front I did. I did the side of the house in the summer and it didn't turn out as well as this area on the hill did in sept.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And here's a look at the area in front of the house I'm fixing to start on

    [​IMG]
     
  9. kirk1701

    kirk1701 LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,981

    Thanks everyone for the help. now I got some more questions.

    I did what PBinWA said, mowed it short and started roundup which ran into $100 then it looked like it was going to need a second application for weeks. Got to talking to a neighbor who said ChemLawn did his and killed it cheaper then what he could have done it himself for so I gave them a call. :)

    Sure enough, they not only could kill it cheaper but replant it and fertilize it cheaper.

    So after the area died which didn't need much help with the drought we had this year I started noticing I was not going to need tilling the yard but rather it needed a good amount of topsoil and grading, here's what it looks like now:

    [​IMG]

    So now I have been talking to some people and need you guys advice. I am being told that ChemLawn will kill your soil ;) they use chemicals to keep the grass green and its not fertilizer and when you stop using ChemLawn you will not be able to keep a lawn. Please tell me there's no truth to this?????
     

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